Demon Carb tuning/timing on SBC 350

The engine cranks over however is idling about 1200 to 1400rpm and after running up to about 180deg on the temp guage it's still idling fast and I try to turn down the curb idle, it stalls out and blows fuel out of the top of the carb. I don't really think it's a timing issue (do not have a timing light) because the engine starts up fine. The valves/rockers are set to Crower's instructions/spec but it's currently running straight headers (no backpressure). Is there something I'm missing as far as the carb's tuning- or something I need to change with the electric choke? BTW- the Barry Grant instructions say the choke should be wired to a 12V+ switched source. Does this mean ignition switched or on a rocker swtich I can turn on and off?

Why won't this thing idle at the normal 700-800rpm?

i guess the 12 v switched source is for the choke, so whatever would turn it on when the engine is runnin, the switched source just makes something else you dont have to toggle on and off manually.

Try checking the fuel pressure, 6-8 psi should be fine.There is no relationship between the actual temperature of the engine and the operation of an electric choke, it simply operates as a function of the time that current has been passing through the internal element. If you find that the fuel pressure is good take the float bowls off and make sure the floats are not sticking. If its neither of those check the timing again.

get a timing light

that really could be the problem, but are you sure your turning the idle screws and not the mixture screws?

also, not sure if demons come preset for idle mixture either, might be too rich at idle or sumthin...

^^^ if your trying to bring down the idle w/ the mixture screws i'm pretty sure thats what will happen, your basically richening it or leaning it to the point of dying.

As for the 12v+ you can get this off the 12v from the coil, or anything that is 12V+ only while the motor is running. Some coils output 9v instead of 12v, just check it with a volt meter.

Also is you Carb an Idle-Eze carb? If so thats a whole different story as far as adjustment, and your Idle air mixture is adjusted on the top of the float bowls with a 5/8 wrench and flat head screwdriver, screw out to raise float level and in to reduce float level. Your idle screw will have a spring under it and should have two, one for primary and one for secondary

Ok.... let me respond to these posts as much as I can.

Ok, I was wondering whether or not the electric choke needed to be hot at all times when the ignition is in "run" or "on" or whether I needed to toggle it off after a bit... it's already wired in hot while the ignition key is in the "run" or "on" position.

The fuel bowls do seem high- let me explain the fuel system. I got a brand new never used- but pre-owned Carter "black" pump. Thing puts out up to 18psi fuel pressure at 100gpm. The fuel regulator is a polished Holley unit that is adjustable from 4.5 to 9psi. When I turn the key the pump comes on and the fuel pressure guage on the carb says 13psi however when the engine is idling (which again- all it will idle at is 1200-1400rpm) it shows about 7 to 8psi and I cannot for the life of me get it any lower using that regulator. Anyway- the fuel bowl sights are completey full unless the engine is running. I say this because when the engine stalls out the fuel pump is still running and seems to fill the bowls again- (or so I assume). I may end up removing this pump and replacing it with more of a daily driver-streetable pump.

It seems the carb is running rich because after removing a few plugs, they seem to be pretty black.

The idle setscrew is over near the throttle arm- and the mixture screws (4) are at the base of both front/rear bowls. The instructions say to screw these in all the way and unscrew them from 1/4 turn up to 2 full turns to get the engine started and then mess with them from there. The carb is a 625 Road Demon.

I've also had someone tell me that the distributor may be a gear off on the cam- however this does not make sense to me because you can twist the base/cap around way more than jsut a tooth when being stabbed- so the timing can be cured by rotation of the base/cap rather than pulling it again and restabbing a tooth over right?

I will not be able to work on the truck till tonight or tomorrow night- so any additional info will be appreciated.

I believe your pump is the biggest problem and thats where I would start. The timing being off a gear on the cam wouldnt make that big a difference but would affect total timing. If this is off get it right before you proceed.(Bring #1 up to TDC and drop the distributor in pointed directly at the #1 Cylinder.) The deal on the 4 mixture screws is good and tends to vary with cam size and intake volume, but thats a good starting point. Also did you un hook the vaccum line on the advance before timing, if not you have to do this to get base timing, if not the advance is gonna compensate for the change when you advance or retard the timing. I would get the pump swapped and start at 6 psi and then adjust idle mixture screws out 1 turn from lightly bottomed and set the idle to around 900 rpm, then let it idle for about 3-4 minutes and pull some plugs and see if you are rich or lean. Once you see its not lean try lugging the motor a couple times and do a couple throttle whips and if it seems to run ok, let it cool and check the plugs again, if you hear any pinging advance the timing 2 degrees until it stops. Sorry for the long post , there is still alot I could tell you but this will get you headed in the right direction.