Skinning Rear Cab Wall

How should I go about skinning my rear cab wall on my 70 datsun 521? I've heard guys tack their skin over the existing wall, but I would rather cut out my existing wall first so's I can get the skin nice and flush. What do you guys think?

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Usually just skin over the existing skin- who's ever going to see it?
BUT- with the 521, the factory wall curves into the interior, limiting space behind the seats. Cut that sucker out, then skin it flat! Put some bead rolls or other bracing in there, though, so you've got some structure!

Be sure to take some pictures along the way, so I can see what you do!

-Phil at FBI

personally i wouldn't cut it out all those ridges are there for a reason and by removing them you are losing a lot of structure just my two cents tho

Hmmmm, yes I was going to use 14ga. steel, but you're right dude, those ridges are a lot of strength, so I guess I'll brace the fuck out of it. I think I'll do it in a two piece, top and bottom to maintain the integrity of the cab as much as possible, Even though it's probably 30% more welding.

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we cut it out of a buddy of mines yota. its doored and drags like a MOFO seems fine plus i think it looks alot cleaner. just my opinion.

I know what that large hump is hat you are talking about. My truck had that too. I cut it out and plates that area wih 1/8" plate, and then skinned over the back wall with 16 guage. I just drilled holes in the factory cab wall where it touched, and plug welded it from the inside.

cut what you dont want out then go to the inside and run 1x1 along the edge of the interior wall and make something so that all you gotta do is skin it from the outside and plug/rosett weld it then when your done get a push tube of seam sealer and go along all the interior edges and lay a bead down then paint over it and it will look factory. the seam sealer really strengthens when it gets hard and it will keep the skin from vibrating if you out a system in it....i did my top secret full size chevy like this and its so nice and i also did a new floor and firewall and after i had thoroughly tacked everything i layed down what looks like a row of coin welds with the seam seal tube and it was 6 bucks for a tube at the ppg paint supplier.....cut it out, it will be fine, the roof is what holds that cab together...cut it up!

I dont have any pics yet but I cut mine out completly and put a piece of 14 ga. in there. it seems strong, might throw a couple braces in there so the subs dont rattle it too much.

Originally posted by IDMINITRUCKER



I dont have any pics yet but I cut mine out completly and put a piece of 14 ga. in there. it seems strong, might throw a couple braces in there so the subs dont rattle it too much.

i am sure it seems strong right now i would just worry about it over time i def like the way seths looks strong and done right

Originally posted by JFcustoms



cut what you dont want out then go to the inside and run 1x1 along the edge of the interior wall and make something so that all you gotta do is skin it from the outside and plug/rosett weld it then when your done get a push tube of seam sealer and go along all the interior edges and lay a bead down then paint over it and it will look factory. the seam sealer really strengthens when it gets hard and it will keep the skin from vibrating if you out a system in it....i did my top secret full size chevy like this and its so nice and i also did a new floor and firewall and after i had thoroughly tacked everything i layed down what looks like a row of coin welds with the seam seal tube and it was 6 bucks for a tube at the ppg paint supplier.....cut it out, it will be fine, the roof is what holds that cab together...cut it up!

Yeah Seth's shit is tight, as always with that kid. But I like this dude's idea and will probably do something similar. My factory cab wall is a little different and I want it to be cleaner. Just one flat sheet.

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