What now???

Ok, i have a 99 s10 4.3 5 speed. I took off the bumper and driver's side fender last night, i unbolted the fuse box and moved it out of the way (did'nt disconnect any wires or anything, it's just laying on the motor). I'm looking to relocate that stuff and ditch the abs to make room for 20's w/bags. My question is how do i disconnect the brake booster/master cylinder? Do i need to bleed the fluid before i do anything, or will it not leak by just taking off the tubes? I have a 7" brake booster/master cylinder combo with a proportion valve. Can i use the stock lines for these? If so, which lines go where (fatboys s10, i'm looking in your direction, i know you're doing somewhat the same thing now, help out another fatty, please!)? It looks like there's 3 lines going from the abs, am i correct in assuming 2 for front discs and one that t's somewhere for the back drums? Which is which? The proportion valve is set up for a disc/drum combo. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

You can save the abs with very little work. I can email you a few pics if you'd like of a dime I just did for 20's. It took all of an hour and a half to do it.

yeah, rob, that would be great! While you're at it, can you also send me pics of what you did with the fuse box, and blower box (did you keep the ac or ditch it?)and computer? And do you have to trim the fenders to make them fit? they're 20x8.5 KMC Mavens, and i got 255/30/20 tires for it, overall tire height is 26"

Jumbo i can only answer part of your question. i bought the truck already layin 20s so the abs was already removed along with the ac,fuse box,and computer.im learnin as i go. ive got my 7"booster on already that was somewhat of a bitch. your gunna have to remove your dash to unhook the booster from the brake pedal and firewall.being that you like to eat a lil too much like myself this part is what sucks cuz its just hard to get in behind all that crap to remove it. the booster is bolted to the firewall with 4 bolts(sounds easy to remove but believe me youll be cursing those bastards before your done!)next remove the rod on the back of the booster that is connected the the brake pedal. when you get this removed youll notice that the end of that rod is flat and has a hole in it. (dont know what to call it but its the part of the rod that actually attaches to the brake pedal) that part its about an 1"-2" long, you'll have to cut that off your old booster and weld it to your new one. then of course reverse this process to put the new one back on. i wont get my new master cylinder until monday so cant answer any ?s on that yet but i do know that the hard lines going from the proportioning valve to the new master cylinder are not going to fit. so your either going to have to get some new ones bent and double flared or look into the steal braided line like me. i think im gunna go back with hard line though. hope that helps. ill post some more if i get my master cylinder on before u.and sorry for writing a freaking novel.

how can you remove the fuse box? I'd like to, but it's got some fuses you need, right?

sorry bout that dont know why i said my fuse box was removed, its not, its still there. like i said i bought the truck with all this done so i dont know where the stock location for the fuse box is but mine is (relocated?)located in front of the driverside tire bolted up next to the radiator. so its on the driverside front corner.

ill see if i cant get some pics of my engine bay for ya!

damn, dude, you were right. Do i really have to take out the dash to get to the bolts? I got one loose (the lower left one) and had to say fuck it cause i gotta work tomorrow. cramming my fat ass under the dash was like trying to fit 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag. I really don't want to take the dash out yet, i'm planning on getting a vintage air (or hot rod air, i have'nt decided yet) system for it, and while the dash is out i want to paint it, etc, etc. I don't want to have to do that twice. right now i'm just trying to get my control arms and booster/master cylinder put in, tub the firewalls, and relocate the computer stuff in time for the relaxed show in September. it's gonna be a bitch, but i'm shooting for it. I did take out a whole bunch of stuff i did'nt need, like the gauge panel and trim panel, but i think i'll just leave it out just in case...i'm going to get some u joints for my extensions to see if it's any easier to get to those damn bolts. I'll let you know. i'm sure i have some more shit to ask, but i'm dog ass tired and i'm going to go say hi to Mr. Pillow. I'll holler back when i remember something.

Originally posted by sdime2372



damn, dude, you were right. cramming my fat ass under the dash was like trying to fit 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag. sucks being fat sometimes dont it! i was told it would be best to take the dash out to change the booster but if you can get to those f'n bolts without taking it out more power to ya. i took mine out cuz it was a 94 sonoma dash that was in there with my stock gauge cluster,cd player,and head light box zipped tied to it. so it was fairly easy to get mine out. but like i said if you can get those bolts out without removing the dash,besides myself,youd be the coolest fat sob i know! lol

damn skippy, i might need to holla at you when i go to GA for thanksgiving (my dad's whole side of the family lives there), but usually when we come thru columbus it's about 11pm and we still got 10 or so hours of driving left...i'll let you know if i get them out. I'm going somewhere tomorrow to get 3 or 4 swivel joints for my sockets and ratchets to see if i can jimmy rig something to bend those 15 corners. Oh yeah, and i have a remote start alarm that is stuffed under the dash there, i've got another 10 pounds of spaghetti to try to move around...