Bleeding the Brakes

how exactly do you bleed the mazda brakes. I replaced all the rubber lines with 26inch fronts (stainless steel) and the rear with a 18inch stainless steel line. Also replaced the master cyl. I'm having issues with the pedal being completely spongie, and it will not firm up and stay that way. I'm thinking that i have bubbles in the front calipers because of the amount of fluid that came out while swapping the lines. and i'm thinking that the way that my lines are run it's hard for all the air to come outta system.
any ideas?
russsss help........please

start at the cylinder farthest from the master cylinder ( which is actually the drivers rear because the line goes down the passenger side) and bleed in turn to the closest.

I had this same problem, couldnt get all the air out, tried a new master even. Turned out the fitting I used in the back wasnt a double flare and it was letting air back in. Fixed that and stopped on a dime.

Hmm...I have lines from Earls with the adapters from them as well. Could i have this 'double flair' issue too? what does a double flair fitting look like? I just replaced the rubber lines that were on the truck with SS ones. Is the guy i bought these from...dumb? i mean i brought a front line in and he matched it up.

you might need to bench bleed the new master cylinder, you put it in a vise and plug the holes, and start pumping on it witha screwdriver or something similair until its very hard to push and theres no bubbles coming out of the reservoir. then put it back on the truck, hook up each line one at at time while removing the plugs, crack all the bleeder screws, let it sit for about an hr, then close them up, and bleed them like normal.

Edited: 9/26/2006 7:53:30 AM by inomrthenudo

I am not sure if this will make sense, but it worked for me, especially with the clutch cylinder: If the cap has a hole, and your reservoir is full, have the cap closed and get an airgun and blow air through the hole in the cap, have someone open the line and the air pressure will force the fluid down the line. Don't let the reservoir fall below it's minimum, otherwise you will get air back in the system. I have had great results with my clutch master that way. Bleed them the way russ said, starting from the farthest wheel, being your pass rear, then driver rear and so on.

Thanks guys, i ended up gravity bleeding them/letting them sit with the bleeder screws open for about an hour, while i baby sat the master cyl.
I bench bled it prior to the install because you have to swap out the reservoir. And the instructions said to bench bleed it. it even came with some lil plugs and everything...which was kinda cool.

so is it fixed?

yea... i had sooooo much air come outta there... it was insane! i didnt think that the fronts would even be able to hold that much of anything. BUT...they did, and things are now good.
thanks for the help everyone.