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Air Ride Suspensions \  3" to lay frame but the driveshaft is...

3" to lay frame but the driveshaft is...

Air Ride Suspensions Q & A
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replies 25
following 10
 
olskoolpup   +1y
are you sure they are using a 4 link? if they were using a 2 link on the ranger, the links would be outside the frame like yours, have ni upper bars that would interfere with the bed floor, and the pinion would be pointed down when laid out, gaining floor clearance.

the ranger i bagged was set up similar to yours and i had to cut up the bed floor and beat the shit outta the floor pan. the upper link x-member was also notched for the d-shaft. this was on 225/40/18s. it also didnt lay all the way out since the owner didnt want to fork over the extra dough for the radius arm relocation and tranny xmember. so even more may have had to be done.
metaltoburn   +1y
ya im sure I just posted a link to fade2blk94's setup which is similar to mine, I dont know if he lays out completely in the back or not
still2low4urho   +1y
My ranger hit on the cab too, i had tunnel it out so i could ride all the way down in the back
dssur   +1y
uh, when you build a non adjustable 4 link I think one of the keep things to check before welding anything solid would absolutely be the PINION ANGLE.

You omitted the test step, where you just tack everything in and then use a jack to run it up and down, this keeps you from having to make new tabs if there is a problem. Thats helpful advice for when you cut it all off and start again.

ANd you might be able to get more down angle just by cutting the crossmember for the upper bars loose and moving it forward a little, I would do as someone else suggested too and raise it a couple inches. Be sure to gusset it, especially if you like doing burnouts, or it will surely fail.

some stuff is 5% inspirartion and 95% perspiration, but a 4 link is about 100%inspiration, 100% innovation, 100% research and 100% perspiration. yes, I know that is 400%, but look at what happened with your measly 100%.
cruisinlowS10   +1y
one option, not the cheapest would be to have a new driveshaft made in a smaller diameter.
TwistedPhil   +1y
Originally posted by Russ-D



A 4 link is about 100%inspiration, 100% innovation, 100% research and 100% perspiration. yes, I know that is 400%, but look at what happened with your measly 100%.

I think I'm using that as my sig from now on!!! Can I quote you on that?
olskoolpup   +1y
thats awesome russ. so true too. you should be able to adjust your pinion angle, your uppers appear to be adjustable. that is, unless, you installed them adjusted all the way in. then you are back to square 1.
bykustomz   +1y
If you just decide to move your upper crossmember closer to the cab then your wheels may not be centered in your wheel wells. Really the only way to get it right is to redo everything. Damn if those things just came with instructions!
metaltoburn   +1y
It's all good cuz I got the other 300% to get it done..lol, I'm gonna raise the c-member and tunnel out the cab (or beat it in whatever gets the job done) at least I'll have proper pinion angle...not that bad really..the thing that matters is that it'll lay and lay right ... these damn things should come with instructions though..lmao till the next fuck up I appreciate the advice , the 2 cents , and of course the sarcasim one of the many things I always expect from the members here on streetsource, Matt