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Air Ride Suspensions \ 4-link question.. quick help please...4-link question.. quick help please...
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replies 9
following 7
Brill
+1y
I'm going to try and explain this.. I may open up paint and draw a picture..
Right now, my lower link bars are bolted to the stock leaf hangers on my s10.. I am getting a new link system.. and was going to move the lower links towards the inside (away from the tires) a few inches.. and put everything inside the frame rail..
My question is, will it hurt anything... if the lower link bars are mounted on the same crossmember that the upper link bars are on? I mean, if the pinion angle is set and the axel is centered, it shouldnt matter.. right?.. The lower bars will still be moutned on the tabs welded tothe lower side of the axel.. just moved inward a littl bit.. and then istead of being parallel to the ground at ride height.. the other end of the bar will be mounted on the tabs welded to the new crossmember.. the same corssmember as the upper bars.. and will be about 6" higher than where it mounts onto the axle..
Does that make sens? or should I break out MS Paint?
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Right now, my lower link bars are bolted to the stock leaf hangers on my s10.. I am getting a new link system.. and was going to move the lower links towards the inside (away from the tires) a few inches.. and put everything inside the frame rail..
My question is, will it hurt anything... if the lower link bars are mounted on the same crossmember that the upper link bars are on? I mean, if the pinion angle is set and the axel is centered, it shouldnt matter.. right?.. The lower bars will still be moutned on the tabs welded tothe lower side of the axel.. just moved inward a littl bit.. and then istead of being parallel to the ground at ride height.. the other end of the bar will be mounted on the tabs welded to the new crossmember.. the same corssmember as the upper bars.. and will be about 6" higher than where it mounts onto the axle..
Does that make sens? or should I break out MS Paint?
|\/|
91 drggn dime
+1y
your bars should be as equal as possible, so the same crossmember on mounting it is what you want.. you also want the uppers angled down slight towards the lowers..
just a question for you, on your other thread, you were putting a piece of 2x2 across the frame as a crossmember.. have you checked to see if your driveshaft will hit? the last one i did on 20's, i had to build 3" pieces on the frame going up, then have the 2x2 crossmember to clear the driveshaft and upper bars.
just a question for you, on your other thread, you were putting a piece of 2x2 across the frame as a crossmember.. have you checked to see if your driveshaft will hit? the last one i did on 20's, i had to build 3" pieces on the frame going up, then have the 2x2 crossmember to clear the driveshaft and upper bars.
Brill
+1y
Edited: 11/12/2006 6:08:58 PM by Brill
on 18s... It does not hit.... I am going to build a "notch" for the driveshaft to go through...
The uppers will be angled down... Its kind of like... the lowers are mounted on the bottom of the axle.. the uppers are on the top of the pumpkin.. they come together at the crossmember that is an equal distance between the two.. the upers are triangulated of course..
on 18s... It does not hit.... I am going to build a "notch" for the driveshaft to go through...
The uppers will be angled down... Its kind of like... the lowers are mounted on the bottom of the axle.. the uppers are on the top of the pumpkin.. they come together at the crossmember that is an equal distance between the two.. the upers are triangulated of course..
91 drggn dime
+1y
hope you know how to weld to cast or your uppers will break off. use a lot of heat, a lot more then you would on any other part of it.
also make sure the bars are as parallel as possible at ride height..
that's cool on 18's it doesnt hit..
also make sure the bars are as parallel as possible at ride height..
that's cool on 18's it doesnt hit..
Brill
+1y
Make sure the upper and loer bars are parallel with each other as much as possible, right?.
91 drggn dime
+1y
Originally posted by Brill
Make sure the upper and loer bars are parallel with each other as much as possible, right?.
yes.. but also, they should be parallel to each other and parallel to the ground, but with as much articulation we put on suspensions, angling the uppers down some where they arent perfectly parallel to the lowers, allows it to arc more without pinion movement, but at ride height, you want the lowers parallel the uppers will almost be. i'm not talkn about a dramatic angle downward, but a slight one.
Make sure the upper and loer bars are parallel with each other as much as possible, right?.
yes.. but also, they should be parallel to each other and parallel to the ground, but with as much articulation we put on suspensions, angling the uppers down some where they arent perfectly parallel to the lowers, allows it to arc more without pinion movement, but at ride height, you want the lowers parallel the uppers will almost be. i'm not talkn about a dramatic angle downward, but a slight one.
draggindimes
+1y
Edited: 11/13/2006 1:30:45 PM by JUICEDIME00
Edited: 11/13/2006 1:30:13 PM by JUICEDIME00
Originally posted by 91 drggn dime
hope you know how to weld to cast or your uppers will break off. use a lot of heat, a lot more then you would on any other part of it.
also make sure the bars are as parallel as possible at ride height..
that's cool on 18's it doesnt hit..
Please dont even condone that
DO NOT WELD TO YOUR DIFFERENTIAL. you are gonna have to make something like this. if you weld to that cast your brackets will break. and then you will be no better than the guy you bought the truck from
Edited: 11/13/2006 1:30:13 PM by JUICEDIME00
Originally posted by 91 drggn dime
hope you know how to weld to cast or your uppers will break off. use a lot of heat, a lot more then you would on any other part of it.
also make sure the bars are as parallel as possible at ride height..
that's cool on 18's it doesnt hit..
Please dont even condone that
DO NOT WELD TO YOUR DIFFERENTIAL. you are gonna have to make something like this. if you weld to that cast your brackets will break. and then you will be no better than the guy you bought the truck from
BioMax
+1y
Originally posted by 91 drggn dime
Originally posted by Brill
Make sure the upper and loer bars are parallel with each other as much as possible, right?.
yes.. but also, they should be parallel to each other and parallel to the ground, but with as much articulation we put on suspensions, angling the uppers down some where they arent perfectly parallel to the lowers, allows it to arc more without pinion movement, but at ride height, you want the lowers parallel the uppers will almost be. i'm not talkn about a dramatic angle downward, but a slight one.
He's right, if you aren't careful about the angle of your link bars (at HALF travel) you can have some really strange driving conditions. Roll steer is a by-product of link location, from above and from the side. So do some homework befor you start cutting into your truck.
If you want a copy of my rear suspension article IM me your e-mail and I will send you a copy.
Originally posted by Brill
Make sure the upper and loer bars are parallel with each other as much as possible, right?.
yes.. but also, they should be parallel to each other and parallel to the ground, but with as much articulation we put on suspensions, angling the uppers down some where they arent perfectly parallel to the lowers, allows it to arc more without pinion movement, but at ride height, you want the lowers parallel the uppers will almost be. i'm not talkn about a dramatic angle downward, but a slight one.
He's right, if you aren't careful about the angle of your link bars (at HALF travel) you can have some really strange driving conditions. Roll steer is a by-product of link location, from above and from the side. So do some homework befor you start cutting into your truck.
If you want a copy of my rear suspension article IM me your e-mail and I will send you a copy.
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