Getting A Little More Power / Russ D ?

but if u do a 6 go for the 8

just be diff thats the key

its an 87 toy engine but maybe this will inspire/help out

example, beeter air/fuel flow/pressure and then work on your exhaust flow. maybe port and polish, ignition stuff... if you plann on keeping that motor though!!!

See if you can find a forklift repair shop around you and get a rebuild kit throught them for a mazda 2.6 they are set-up to run on propane but are still the same motor and you can pistons that are 11.5:1 helps a lot the place I get mine from is Total Source but I don't know if they are nation wide or not.

I say twin turbo fuel injected 3-fiddy... J/K Turbo's are always cool to look at under the hood of a mini and if its done right, you can drive it everyday and be reliable as hell, look for a old 1st gen Ford probe, they were turbo charged and with a little work the manifold and pretty much everything will work on your truck, you will just have to re-do some of the piping(intercooler, your choice) I am currently doing a twin turbo Lt1 in my buddy S-10 if you need turbo help let me know

Make your own header, you could port and polish the head, or you could go with a turbo or maybe a small shot of the n2o.

drop a chevy 350 and turbo it like scott said,that would be sweet

On the 86-93 trucks the exhaust is the most restrictive area. The first thing I would do is gut the stock exhaust start at the manifold and run 2" tubing all the way back with an aftermarket cat and muffler of your choice.

Your truck is FI so I don't recommend a weber unless you like a loss of driveability in cold / rainy weather and possable loss of fuel milage. If you want to run 11:1 compression you'll be hard pressed to do it on pump gas. Proper unshrouding of the valves within 1/2" of the valve seats and recut valve angles to help low valve lift flow will give far more performance then the best port work on these heads. On the ports themselves I would simply match them to the intake and smooth out the casting with an 80 grit barrel drum. You can also smooth out the casting on the inside of the exhaust manifold the best you can.

You can take the flywheel to a shop and have them lighten it. Usually they'll charge about $50 and can take a few pounds off. This will help acceleration with a slight sacrifice in drivability, especially with a load in the truck. If you mainly use it for daily driving and some occational light loads it probably won't be any harder to drive. If you do this tell the shop to worry about getting the weight off the outside portions of the flywheel because they will have more inertia than weight towards to center.

You can also have the cam reground, have the block bored to increase CI and compression a little, deck the block a few thousanths, etc...