BODY PREP?

i have a few quwstions.. im going to paint my truck my question is to do the body work do i strip the are were im going to put filler to bare metal?also whats better rage gold or z grip....?

you dont have to go to bare metal. and to me rage is to way to go.

i never put bondo on paint so always grind out far enough so you dont get the mud on the paint i always put putty coat as a final skim and feather that into the paint over 180 grit rage gold or monarch is what i use other people do things different its what works for me

ok and for the sposts were i have shaved.. like tail gate handle tail lights and everything else? first i put that duraglass? and whats a good primer

i just take my time when welding grinding and do as good as i can with the metal work and just bondo i dont mean an inch think though i havent had good luck with dura glass on metal

what phillip said ^^^^..and when I shave stuff I always put a thin layer of fiberall over it first..that stuff flexes and holds out great..remeber to seal the panel from the inside or you WILL see a line or rust streaks where the part is corroding from the inside..

i have worked at a body shop for bout 5 years and we always grind it to the metal and we use z grip and shark bite. shark bite is high but it's some good stuff

i work in a body shop. never apply mud over paint. grind slightly past where your are applying mud (consult a bodyshop supply store what they recomend for your mud). when u feel u have got your mud staright apply a thin topcoat layer (never use bondo product)block in 180 grit. when that is one blow it off with an airchuck mix more top coat take a razorblade fill any big sctracths and pinholes with topcoat and razorblade leave no excess topcoat. you are ready for acid etch and highbuild primer

remember these basic principles and you will never go wrong.

Pull dent, or rough shape repair area w/body working tools.

Remove paint approx 1"-2" past repair area all the way around. Some paint may have been removed to pull dent or weld filler panel in.

Scuff sand paint edge at repair area w/40-80 grit.

Fill in repair area w/appropriate filler. Always pull first coat tight and thin to increase adheasion and reduce air pockets between substrate and filler.

If necessary rough shape repair area w/surform "cheese grater".

Further shape repair area w/40 grit.

Featheredge repair area into surrounding paint surface w/80 grit. Never go finer than 80 grit w/a plastic resin filler unless filler manufacturer says it can be featheredged w/a finer grit.

Always blow off repair area before proceeding to another step which involves applying something else to it.

Apply a glazing putty/polyester resin filler. Again pull first coat tight and thin.

Featheredge repair area w/180 or 220.

Scuff sand surrounding paint surface w/220.

Apply primer of choice. At least 2 med coats.

Allow primer to dry. Repair area should be double checked for highs and lows w/some type of guide coat. Once this has been checked, repair area should be sanded for paint. 320 or finer depending on paint being used.

Hope this helps some.

Different products can be unique to different procedures. These are the basics and have been in use for a long time. Best bet would be to consult your supplier.

Hope this helps some.

Late