Primer, Bodywork, and so on

Ok, I already know how to do bodywork and everything. But I want to know a basic breakdown of primer, bodywork, primer, sealer, and all that. Basically I want to know what kind of primer(epoxy, ethching, etc.) first. Then bodywork, and what kind of primer afterwards(2K, poly, urethane or other). So please help me out here guys I want to do it correct the first time.I just want a simple step by step breakdown, and thanks again guys for any help you can give me

I work at a local gm dealership in the body shop and this is the process we go through. After grinding to bare metal we apply the body filler right on top of the metal. Some will say to apply a self etching primer to the bare metal before filler. after filler i put on a two part finishing putty. to help get some of my scratches out and you can sand it with a lighter grit paper. Then we apply a 2 part urethane primer. Block with 320 and reprime. Then sand back over the primer with 320 on a da or you can wet block back over it with a higher grit paper. We apply the sealer right over the top of the primer then apply base. Some of these steps will change depending on what your doing ex. For something thats been stripped i would prime the whole vehicle with an epoxy primer on top of the body work.

A big step that a lot of people rush in priming. You need to allow adequate flash times in between coats. Also allow plenty of time in between your first prime and when your going to block and reprime. this will help eliminate any sand scratches that would show up in the paint job. People are probably gonne jump on here and say this is all wrong but ive worked at this shop for 2 years and we've only had 1 job come back b/c of a bad burn in on the clear.

Edited: 7/9/2007 5:33:06 PM by BK2LIFE

Edited: 7/9/2007 5:32:02 PM by BK2LIFE



also depends on what part of the world your in, as in if you have serious rust issues, then you need to worry about rust proofing, as in metal etching primer, and rust converting thebare metal before antying is sprayed on top of it.

google paint and body, there are millions of tech articles out there. many magazines do paint and body tips almost every month

im from la and ive always had to put down a ething primer befor body filler, if not big rusting pro under the work, eventually causing the paint to crack.. sucks really bad hours of work and money in the trash..

there a different types of epoxy primers, some come with a self etch in it. if you want a good show quality paint job epoxy it block it and what ever needs work, work it! you can mud over epoxy primer. it takes a little work to cut it but block with 220, then reprime with a urethane primer...flash time is very important, when i do my work on the side i will let a car sit for a week after priming...but im also paranoid about shrinkage...mud work will do that too if you sand on it too early.

Yea and there's nothing worse then seeing the edge of your mudwork in a paintjob especially if you've got countless hours of airbrush time in it. The dupont rep told me that their ultra productive urethane primer has a etching agent in it.But it cant hurt to have a coat of self etch under your mud work

epoxy prime over metal, then body work, then prime with whatever you like, then your good. the filler can absorb water. you dont want that next to metal....

grind to bare metal with a 36 grit sanding disc, use "kitty hair" over welds, etc.. then body filler, i love rage gold, and have had the fewest problems with it. block the filler out before it dries completely, or is still "green" i only use 36 grit on filler. aply as much filler as neccessary to make the panel straight, glaze any pin holes. i do NOT use urethane primer..it shrinks! evercoat makes this stuff called Slick Sand, it is a polyester primer, uses MEK catalyst, it doesnt shrink, even over 36 grit. spray 4-5 coats of that, cut it with 80 grit, go up to 220, 400 wet, seal it. seems to be the best method, and nothing will shrink!