quinn625
+1y
do it change the sound when you face the the woofer in the trunk up because i want to make the box a little bigger or port it
ShakinPlates
+1y
That shouldnt matter... building the box to the correct requirements of the woofer is more important.
gOtBaGs2107
+1y
it might if you port it, you want to make sure that it has enough air space for the sub to push, and if its facing the top it may decrease the space between the port and top while as against the seat and facing the rear of the car may allow more air flow which would more than likly give it a better sound. if you dont port it than it shouldnt matter cause the sub will have its own air in the box to push around. you dont want to much or to little air flow as you probably already know. just a friendly hint make sure you take into consideration what type of music you listen to as there is a very distinct sound between port and sealed on types of music. ive learned only a few types sound good in ported but for me everything sound good in a sealed.
lowdowndirtydawg
+1y
I have been playing for years with all that stuff(spl), and My honnest suggestion is to face woofers rear or towards the rear of the trunk. This will be the loudest for ported or sealed. If you port it and face it rear leave the port on the passanger side, if the box faces forward than the port on the drivers side.
Every woofer has specs, search on the web and build the box to the specs. If you cant a good rule of thumb is to build a sealed box 1.2 cubes per woofer, and ported 1.7 cubes per woofer with 16 (ie, 4x4x10, 2x8x10...)square inches of port at 10 inches long. These are examples of the most common boxes.
Another hint is if you can try to use a single woofer. I feel that one strong 12/15 is better than 2 ok twelves. Or one well powered 12/15 is always better than 2 under powered, most the time distorted, drivers, but two well powered drivers is the best.
Every woofer has specs, search on the web and build the box to the specs. If you cant a good rule of thumb is to build a sealed box 1.2 cubes per woofer, and ported 1.7 cubes per woofer with 16 (ie, 4x4x10, 2x8x10...)square inches of port at 10 inches long. These are examples of the most common boxes.
Another hint is if you can try to use a single woofer. I feel that one strong 12/15 is better than 2 ok twelves. Or one well powered 12/15 is always better than 2 under powered, most the time distorted, drivers, but two well powered drivers is the best.
unusualfabrication
+1y
If you want it loud, which most do, I prefer a big slot ported box. The last one I built was a little over 7 cubic feet and port itself was a little under 1 cubic foot, so almost 8 cubic feet total. It held 2 well powered 15" drivers. Took up alot of room too! Unless your building an SQ car a ported box will sound just fine with most any music. Box design is everything, you can take a $1000 woofer and put it in a poorly designed box and it'll sound like a $100 woofer.
karathos
+1y
Another thing alot of people with trunks dont think of is that for good SPL and also sound travel you need to have a way for your bass to get from the trunk to the passenger compartment. At my past shop we did alot of cutting on the rear deck to allow a vent of sorts to be installed. Connecting the passenger compartment to the trunk
sittinonbagz
+1y
it needs enought room to breathe to make it sound good if you dont its going to sound like shit
purplekush
+1y
Edited: 9/23/2007 2:53:15 PM by FarBeyondDriven
if you dont know how to build boxes dont even try to build a ported box
if you must thogo with a bandpass box with the sub completely enclosed in the box
and i reccomend using two drivers for a bandpass box
top view
a rectangular box chambered into 3 sections the subwoofers facing sideways one in each chamber divider with the port in the middle
reallllllllly loud design if built right
the enclosed part of the box should be the reccomended mimimum air space requirements and the ported section will add a little bit of space
its simple really but super loud
if you dont know how to build boxes dont even try to build a ported box
if you must thogo with a bandpass box with the sub completely enclosed in the box
and i reccomend using two drivers for a bandpass box
top view
a rectangular box chambered into 3 sections the subwoofers facing sideways one in each chamber divider with the port in the middle
reallllllllly loud design if built right
the enclosed part of the box should be the reccomended mimimum air space requirements and the ported section will add a little bit of space
its simple really but super loud
purplekush
+1y
oh and that can fit in your trunk and your port can come through the back seat into the passenger area
granth
+1y
Originally posted by FarBeyondDriven
Edited: 9/23/2007 2:53:15 PM by FarBeyondDriven
if you dont know how to build boxes dont even try to build a ported box
if you must thogo with a bandpass box with the sub completely enclosed in the box
and i reccomend using two drivers for a bandpass box
top view
a rectangular box chambered into 3 sections the subwoofers facing sideways one in each chamber divider with the port in the middle
reallllllllly loud design if built right
the enclosed part of the box should be the reccomended mimimum air space requirements and the ported section will add a little bit of space
its simple really but super loud
explain to me why it is so difficult? you say to build a bandpass, but that is more difficult than ported with very little (if any) advantages.
all a ported box is, is 2 extra pieces of wood, granted you need a good design....not hard to find someone for that really.
A bandpass is pure hell if you want to keep an eye on your sub. You can't see shit, it's all enclosed. Not fun IMO. They work well with CERTAIN drivers. As does ported. Ported is more universal, if done right though.
Porting up will possily cancel output a little compared to rear facing, but if you plan on porting it, more or less it will equal out. The bigger box MAY not be needed, go by your subs specs, and tweak them to your liking. Don't go 2 cu foot bigger than they tell you, more than likely it will sound like pure ass. .5 cuft is a big deal with subs. I would personally never put many 12's in more than 2.5-2.75 cuft each. The majority of them only need 2-2.5 ported.
Edited: 9/23/2007 2:53:15 PM by FarBeyondDriven
if you dont know how to build boxes dont even try to build a ported box
if you must thogo with a bandpass box with the sub completely enclosed in the box
and i reccomend using two drivers for a bandpass box
top view
a rectangular box chambered into 3 sections the subwoofers facing sideways one in each chamber divider with the port in the middle
reallllllllly loud design if built right
the enclosed part of the box should be the reccomended mimimum air space requirements and the ported section will add a little bit of space
its simple really but super loud
explain to me why it is so difficult? you say to build a bandpass, but that is more difficult than ported with very little (if any) advantages.
all a ported box is, is 2 extra pieces of wood, granted you need a good design....not hard to find someone for that really.
A bandpass is pure hell if you want to keep an eye on your sub. You can't see shit, it's all enclosed. Not fun IMO. They work well with CERTAIN drivers. As does ported. Ported is more universal, if done right though.
Porting up will possily cancel output a little compared to rear facing, but if you plan on porting it, more or less it will equal out. The bigger box MAY not be needed, go by your subs specs, and tweak them to your liking. Don't go 2 cu foot bigger than they tell you, more than likely it will sound like pure ass. .5 cuft is a big deal with subs. I would personally never put many 12's in more than 2.5-2.75 cuft each. The majority of them only need 2-2.5 ported.