Custom Chassis

hey everyone, has anyone done or had any experience building a custom chassis with little or no frame table. I know there are some points that need to be crucial, but how about the actual main frame itself. I know you get what you pay for, but I am a do it myself kind of guy. i have alot of experience in fabrication, and frame modifications. Not sure if I wanna go this route, or dish out the 10-15K on a chassis.

i believe keef doesnt have a table, but i wouldnt swear to it. he hasnt shown it in pics if he does.

iaccino fabrication builds lall of their frames without a table, as long as your level and square, there is no reason to build one without. just measure a whole bumnch and constatly have a level on the frame rails or whatever you are working on.

we didnt use a table just make sure the frame is square and level as ur building

jeff get some!

this jig cost us about $50 to build. It's only 20' of 1 1/2 x 3 and some little metal plates we found at the steel yard.

We have done them at the shop using a few large sawhorses made with channel iron and some steel shims to level them all up. It is a little more of a pain in the ass than using a table but if you're only looking to build a frame for yourself its not worth it to build a table or permanent jig structure. The horses take up a minimal amount of space when not in use which is ideal for ppl working out of home in a small garage or shop. We are building on a table now and I love it but the table constantly has a frame on it which is the only thing that makes its bulk and cost to build worthwhile to me. Ask anyone who has one what good junk collecters they make around the shop, lol.

I built a jig that had pins up through the centers of every bodymount and cut flush with the tops of the bodymount. By making the jig as wide as the original frame and welding the front clip to it, it was a snap to make new rails and make the bodymounts exactly centered and exactly 2.5 inches lower than the stock ones. No one believed it would work without a ton of critical measuring but I tell you now, the ONLY things I had to measure were: the width of the original frame, the 2.5 inches down the pins, and the rear axle position (I used a non adjustable 4 link) The cab plopped back down and you could see through all 4 cab mounts. Work smarter, not harder.

you can see my pins in the second pic. we actually built it on the floor, underneath the frame. we measured the distance between the frame and the ground, then added the body drop distance to that number.

We wont build anything without having it on a table. We have built them before on the floor but it is so much nicer to have anything built on a table. Plus you need to be able to clamp your rails down so they dont move. It is very neccessary to have a plate. Thats how we do it