old school front suspension ????

Hopefully you have some good insight for me to take right path for this project. I have a 52 dodge(wayfarer???, car on my profile). My first plan was to use an entire s10 frame(ex-cab) shortened. I had one purchased but let it go since my shop has been getting far too packed. I guess I had an idea of using my 350 motor/tranny combo in it but recently took a liking to the vintage flattie 6 and fluid-drive trans. My question is what would be the best suspension for the front this junker other than the ol mustang2? Updating to some disk brakes would be a plus. I am going to bag it and I want it to lay out with the stock 15's prolly with some wide whites, and I will be putting a tri-four link in the rear. I am novice with front suspension as of yet but do have some fab skills and access to just about any metal working machinery in a shop(press brakes, rolls, shears, laser tables, ect..) i also have a connection with a machine shop that currently turns out my 4link ends in exchange for adult beverages. So I am only limited by my comprehension.

My favorite front suspension of choice is the 70's GM A-body stuff (Firebird, Chevelle, Camaro...) They can be found in front or rear steer, in many different widths, all are disk brake with power-steering, they love airbags and should offer up around 10" of lift if properly set-up. There are some earlier clips that don't have disk, but they can be easily converted. The basic design is very much like the S-10 but they don't have some of the weird steering geometry that GM did to the S-10s. I would go so far as to narrow the entire clip if I needed a narrower clip, they work that well.

max- I have messed with alot of s-10 suspension and some of the a body suspensions, what do you mean weird steering geometry? I always thought the two were the same or very similar..

For some reason GM has built a vrey small amount of anti-ackermann into the S-10 front ends and the tierods are way too long. That's why they toe out when they lay on 20's. I am speculating that it is intended to give less traction when cornering. Detroit as a whole, has designed their front suspensions to "give-up" sooner in a corner than the rea ends. That is why so many cars don't have a rear sway bar, but have a really big front one...

So, you are saying to use the whole front frame stub then? Those are sub-frame cars, right? As in, easy to pluck one from the boneyard because they are plentiful and just bolt in? Also what about a mid 80's c10, how well is their suspension set up?

Some were frame cars and some were sub-frame cars, so whatever fits your vehicle. The C-10s have decent geometry, but they are big and awkward and can be tough to get to lay down. The A-body stuff will lay 20's without too much work and have an easier to work with upper spring pocket. I know that that might sound wierd, but it makes a difference.