Making a 93 Fullsize lay on 22's

this is a customer truck we bagged about 4 years ago, since then the customer got 22's and whats to make it lay frame now. What all is need to make it lay frame on 22's. I know remove inner front fenders, bigger notch in the rear (its only the frame notch now). Whats else need to be done to lay on 22's
on a fullsize, I know what it take to do a
s-10 because I have done a few but not a fullszie here is the truck now

tub the firewall and move the harness out of the way that is on the firewall. Other stuff as well I just can't think of it right now.

anyone else have info.

EVERYTHING THAT JOSH SAID !!! YOU MIGHT HAVE TO TUNNEL THE BACK OF THE CAB DUE TO THE DRIVESHAFT HITTING IT !! SHORTIN THE DRIVE SHAFT ABOUT 1 1/2 INC. MOVE THE REAR BAG MOUNTS SO THEY DONT HIT THE WHEELS ,

OR TAKE IT TO A SHOP THAT HAS DONE IT BEFORE !! (NOT BEING A DICK , BUT YOU DONT WANT TO FUCK UP SOMEBODY ELSES TRUCK )

shorten the cups up front, notch front frame so the arm doesnt hit the frame, tub the firewall, french in that harness onthe driver side to clear. Obviously the notch, move up your rear bag mounts. Notch the gas tank crossmember. you DO NOT have to notch the back of the cab.

Its hard to say exactly what to do when you didnt even say what you have already done to it.

Edited: 9/6/2007 1:36:55 PM by rolnlow

yeah I was just want a little bit of an idea what all has to be done. the guy brought it to are shop to get done, I have never done a fullsize on 22's, lots of s-10, the rear bags should be ok we installed the ekstensive billy bat setup the bags are mounted on the bars. we originally bagged the truck like 4 years agothanks for all the help

ok i just finished one depending on the bag set up you need a bigger notch if the rear and front shocks are fully compressed then move the shocks, tub the front firewal and move the harness on the drivers side up, take the inner fenders out all the way around, relocate all the shit up front, notch the front frame for the tie rods, and for the bottom control arms, and get rid of the spring hinge for the hood,

i did one with 255 30 22 on the front and didnt have to tub the firewall , and he drags it daily, jus a thot for you, i dehump the back side of the control arm to save on the frame cutting , you do have to shorten the cups and cut for the steering arms, of course relocating is a standard, jus what ive done everybodys opinion differs, any bigger of a tire and tubbing is needed ,hope that helps you some, good luck

if it's the Ekstensive metal work kit rear 2 link, you need new lower link bars... the bag is fully colapsed on a 20" and you'll need more upward travel with a 22".

and a bigger notch. and a different pan hard.

or, relocate the bags on the bars..