what is the max psi a york pulls.

i was thinking of picking one up, how many psi the pull and how reliable r they

im runnin mine to 200 PSI and my buddy Tim is doin the same with no probelms so far

I know my sanden will do over 350...

should only need 200 psi, york will do that all day long. and a hell of lot more reliable. that and i've never had a sanden that lasted for more than 3 months.

I ran mine at 250 for about a week and then it threw a rod. But it was a used old air conditioner compressor, so it might have been a bit worn to begin with.

My sanden has been going to 200 for over 2 years...

yor 210's pistons snap at about 320psi there good up to around 300 i just blew one at 345

I've been screwing with belt drive compressors for the past 10 years or so and have learned a few things.

The best one I have used in the chrysler rv2. It's 11.something cubic inches whereas the biggest york is 10. It's all cast iron, doesn't have as much oil-blow by as the york, and has it's own internal oil pump. It lubricates itself better than the york. The downside about the oil pump is that it only works one direction, so the compressor has to be spun in the direction is was originally designed for. You need to do an oil mod on the RV2 as well, dissamble it and braze or weld a passage up inside it that goes from the crankcase into the intake side of the compressor. The york can be spun either direction and will still work since it is splash-lubed in the crankcase.

The link you posted to do the oil mod is the hard way to do it. You can achieve the same results by pulling the head and shoving a screw into the other end of the same oil passage. JB weld it in place if you want. I think a #8 sheet metal screw goes in there nice and snug. If you search the internet you will see other people mentioning this. Grab a $50 rebuild kit off ebay while you're at it and put a new valve plate and gaskets in there.

To achieve optimal results with the york you need to block the oil passage that goes from the crankcase to the intake, and vent the crankcase to the atmosphere instead of into the intake. The best way I've found to vent them is to tap out one of the fill holes so it will fit a pipe fitting (1/8 or 1/4 NPT). Elbow that out and up, then go up with a 3" nipple. Elbow that over again and go into a small coalsecing filter like you'd use to trap moisture and oil on your shop compressor. Then just stick a muffler fitting in the end of the filter to keep it clean. Keep at least 6 ozs of oil in the York, and empty the crankcase breather filter once a week or so, as well as the filter on the output side of the york.

I can post pictures if you can't figure out what I'm talking about.

I ran mine up to 250 PSI for almost a year, with no probs. Then one day I accidently left the manual switch on for like 15 minutes on the freeway and it pumped up over 400 PSI before it siezed up.

Manual switches with the York are a bad idea because they are so damn fast.

i seen an compressor on a old car at a junk yard it was dual pistons and looked like a shop compressor almost like a v-twin this bitch was huge ...next time im out that way ill take pics i might even get it if its not locked up.

its probly was the vr2 i have one its badass looks like a vtwin found on older mopars i like it and all the yorks there all good i think i messed with the 209 an 210