Hard bodies on 20

I'm lookin to set up a 90 hardbody on 20's with a BD and was wondering if anyone who has done this before could answer a few questions for me. The BD will be stock floor and the truck has the KA 4banger with a stick trans. Is it necessary to lift the tunnel to clear the trans after the drop or is there enough room to fit it back in with out re working the tunnel? The truck will have Can Do arms in the front, does anyone know if the arms will take the Nissan spindle or do they only make them to do the Toyota conversion? I checked Can Do's website and it didn't say. The truck already has drop spindles in it with a 5 bolt conversion so I'm looking to keep them if possible. Is it going to be necessary to narrow the rear axle or is there enough room to squeak the wheels in there with the right offset? Any help would be apreciated, thanx in advance

the man your lookin for is dubrocker on here, he is a mod

The tranny tunnel on mine didnt have to be moved at all when it had a 4 banger in it.And yes Cando has either nissan to nissan or nissan to toyota arms. I had them on mine also.I put a toyota rear end on mine and the wheels or tires didnt rub.

If you have the 5 lug on the front I would assume you have the yota rearend in it already which is good. I have 20's on mine with the 6 lug pattern. I can't help you on the stock floor bd because mine is traditionally bd'ed.

My HB is on 18s and the shop that did the stock floor did (very) minor tunnel work. I'm no authority on suspension work so I don't know if the extra 2" will require more fabrication. Mine also had drop spindles with a 5 lug conversion. The Yota rear end should give you a little more clearance.

dubrocker dosnt know shit! j/k thats the man you want to talk to

a toyota axle will clear a 20x8.5 +40 offset. with a 245/35 the corner of the tire will touch the bedside when laid completely out. after about 3 months of laid out burn outs, the paint will bubble and you'll have a problem.

running the same tire and wheel up front with nissan drop spindles and toyota hubs will be CLOSE. the wheel will have to be dead straight to let the front down and you'll have to trim the lip on the fender. you can drive on the interstate with the truck low, but to drive around town you'll have to air all the way up to turn sharp. the driver side front tire will touch the brake booster when laid out if you don't move it over a bit.

the tranny tunnel will more than likely have to be slightly modified. it's not a major undertaking. plan on buying an aftermarket clutch master cylinder; modifying the stock setup just isn't worth the effort.

you can leave the stock gas tank in it's place but you'll have to tub the cab to clear it. i suggest a fuel cell. it'll help you keep the bed cleaner.

Thanx for all of the info everyone. I have already rounded up a Toyota axle from an 87 for the rear to replace the original nissan axle which is one problem solved. The trucks owner is going to talk to Steve about ordering some control arms with Nissan ball joints for the front this week as well. The info on wheel offset should be useful as well when wheel buying time comes. We're gonna try for a 20x7.5 or 20x8 to gain a little bit of clearance between the wheel and the booster since Dub said his barley touched when running a 20x8.5. The bodydrop in going to be only to the pinch which should hopefully make trans tunnel mods un necessary but whatever I guess. There will be a lot of cutting going on so if the tunnel is in the way I'll cut it too, lol. I will consider the use of an aftermarket clutch master as Dub suggested if it comes down to it as well. The truck will have a fuel cell so I won't have to contend with a stock tank on top of everything else. If anyone else has any additional information to add I would be interested to hear it as well. Thanks to all who have posted, wish me luck.