C4 rear

Max I am installing a C4 Rear in my 69 C-10. My fabricator is wanting to run a ladder bar type link setup. I was wondering if you have any experience with this, and do you think it will work without binding? The rearend will be stock width.

I'm not sure if I understand... Ladder bar and independent don't really go in tha same sentence. Can you post a pic?

If your talkin bout makeing the two paralle bars connect into one pivot point up front DONT do it... the "hub" will want to swing forward way to much causing everything to bind up.... Brandt's nissan was like that he said it rode like crap and didnt get much lift imo i think thats why

Ya that is what I am talking about. Max the C4 uses a parallel 4 link type setup stock. We were just thinking about running the top bar straight and mounting the bag to it. Then have the lower bar go straight forward and bend up to mount to the top bar. We had talked about using a rubber bushing in the front and two heims on the hub. We thought the heims would keep it from binding. Sorry I dont have pics, we are still thinking about ideas!!

Edited: 11/4/2007 7:25:15 AM by ///RELAXED 720

I'll try & be helpfull here.....







there are all the pix i could find of Brants' rear setup..... hope that helps you get the help you need.....

How much lift can you get out of a C4 rear end? I am looking to put one in a 67 c-10 bd on 22's. Im just trying to figure out what will be the best read end to use and the simplest.

We put a C4 rear in my 56 GMC. You can get crazy lift from it BUT.. The tires push out then suck in as you go through the travel range. It's not just straight up and down. I wouldn't do a ladder bar type bar either. I'm switching my to a 4 link style when we start on it again. The ladder bar ( 2 link) style makes the carriers twist and with the in and out in the travel create binding spots. Brandt's, at least from the pics, had the pivot points moved around. I would try to stay close to the original chevy pivots unless you have a good suspension guy that understands the pivot relations.



Even with the drawbacks. They still look bitchin and isn't that the point.

If you do choose to run the ladder bar style, try to keep it as lonk as possible and so that it is parallel(ish) to the ground at half travel. Now that obviously takes up space in the bed, but that is the sacrifice. A 4-link type system would only eliminate the twisting forces placed on the knuckle, but will still push and pull as much as an equal length ladder bar.

It's hard to give a difinitive answer to a question like this. The end use for the vehicle will determine the most effective way to set things up.

Well the truck will not be a daily driver. It is going to be more of a show truck with some cruisin. I will have a mild 350 sbc pushing the whole thing. We are figuring about 10" of travel. I just dont want to spend the money on building the ladder bar setup only to find out it binds. Plus my rearend is stock width, it has not been narrowed.

10" of travel with the axles the stock length is no problem... The more you shorten them the less lift you will get because of the ujoints binding in the half shafts

However if you plan on riding low alot i would stay away from the c4 because just like a driveshaft the u joints in the half shafts are gonna be cycling through some serious angles and all the way up or down you will have horrorible vibrations

Btw anyone east coast wants a c4vette rear i got one already shorten for a s10 wheel base

sorry for whoring