Driveshaft angles with carrier help?

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If I am understanding you correctly, it looks like you should be pointing your pinion down 12

Edited: 1/17/2008 12:03:33 PM by pearldrop

Mine looks exactly like this, except the main driveshaft before the differential is 8 degrees up instead of 2 degrees up.

never seen these numbers before, but looks like a great diagram. I have a set of shims for the tranny and for the carrier, but haven't put them in because I'm not too sure about how much to go...

Also, what are the measurments in the diagram in relation to? The frame? you just make the frame level first then Take your angle measurements off that?

I HAVE A 98 CHEVY EXT CAB FULLSIZE W/ A 2-LINK. I ADDED SOME 1" X 1" SS ROUND BAR RIASERS W/ A PIECE OF 1-1/2" X 1/4" THICK SS FLAT BAR UNDER THE CARRIER BEARING AND IT HAS ZERO VIBE NOW. I CAN DRIVE WITH THE TRUCK AIRED OUT IN THE REAR AND NOT HAVE THE SLITEST BIT OF VIBE! I SHOULD'VE DONE THIS 2 YEARS AGO.

That makes a lot more sense. I would then say that your pinion should point down roughly 5 to 6

You will probably never have 0 vibration with a adjustable suspension. If im wrong someone please correct me. maybe 4" of travel and 0 vibration at every height could be conveivable, but the math is just not there

Edited: 1/17/2008 5:05:47 PM by bagged85

i posted this on another forum....

actually your wrong.on a 2 piece shaft, the trans angle and the rear pinon should be parallel and the angles of both shafts at ride height should equal 0 degrees, which is how high or left to right you set your carrier bearing. there was a big thread about 2 piece driveshafts a few months ago, i posted a bunch of info on there, id search for it.

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/0608rc_driveshaft_tech/driveshaft_support.htmlAngle setup for two-piece shafts is similar to the one-piece. All three working anglesshould add up to zero. The easiest way to do this is to mount the front shaft section so ithas zero degrees through the joint at the transmission. The rear shaft may then be treatedas if it were a single shaft. Sometimes this is not possible and all three angles must bejuggled to arrive at zero. It is a good idea to allow for some up and down adjustment atthe center support mount so the angles may be tuned as necessary once the car is driven.Vehicles that do not have the proper angles set in the driveline components willexperience pulsations that will cause vibration in seats, mirrors, gearshift levers, andother miscellaneous parts. These pulsations can also destroy transmission clutch packs,tailshaft housings, rearend bearings, gear sets, and axles. Another concern in this area is acompound angle that comes about if the centerline of the differential is not in direct linewith the centerline of the engine and transmission. Luckily most rodders are visualconscious when setting up the rearend and use housings with the pumpkin centeredperfectly in the center of the vehicle. Pay equal attention to avoid any compound angleswhile setting up the engine/trans relationship to the rearend. Setting up the componentsright from the beginning can save a lot of frustration and costly repairs down the road.

Once the components have been properly set up on both ends it's time to measure foryour new driveshaft. When it came time to figure out each of the two-piece shafts'lengths, Frick states, "There is no hard and fast law governing shaft lengths. It iscustomary, though, to divide the overall length 40-percent front and 60-percent rear. Ourexperience with motorhome manufacturers has taught us not to make either shaft,especially the front shaft, shorter than 18 inches. Available crossmembers, frameobstacles, and U-joint angle cancellation will all play their part in dividing up the span."Both Denny's Driveshafts and Inland Empire Driveline make this process easy withdetailed instructions and order forms on their Web sites. What you'll need to know iswhat type of transmission you are using (for slip yoke spline application) and what sizeU-joint you are using at the third member yoke. When making your measurements, thevehicle must be on the ground at operating height (jacking up the vehicle will changeyour dimensions). Measuring for a two-piece drive shaft is similar to measuring for aone-piece unit. The major difference involves noting the location of the carrier bearingfor the driveshaft joint if one is being used.

once the axle move up or down the line has now changed. So this doesnt matter? or what? see why this does not make sense with adjustable suspension?

you set it at ride height. goes up and down same way a non adjustible one does when u hit bumps n such.