corey0814
+1y
i posted this last night but for some reason, it didn't take...
ok on your vsv manifold (RH fenderwell) there's a few lines that go into that. one has vacuum at idle. "T" that one into the vacuum line that goes into the purge line on the purge canister. also there's a line that has vacuum above 2000rpm ONLY. "T" that one into the vacuum line that goes into your egr valve. the rest can be plugged with caps you can get on the NAPA handy-pak wall. then you can rip the rest of that shit out. just make sure you're doing the lines 1 at a time so you know which ones have vacuum at idle & which ones have it above 2000rpm. if you mix those up, it's hell to get running again.
i also got rid of the coal canister & capped all the vacuum lines that go to the bottom of the air cleaner for the recirculation system once i got my k&n pie pans.
the resonator i left on there because a piece of 3/4" hose bending 180 degrees will kink (even though both ends of it do abosolutely nothing), i thought it just looks better to paint it & leave it on there but that's your call.
i chose to keep my purge canister because i have such a high fuel flow rate, that when i'm really hard on the throttle the return line is insufficient for bringing fuel back when i'd let off the throttle & she'd hang for a couple seconds & want to flood out. i tried using an adjustable fuel pump/regulator i mounted in reverse to "suck" the fuel back, but just couldn't get it dialed in just right & it only bleeds off an ounce or 2 of fuel anyway, but if your motor is stock or close to it, you won't have that problem & you can do away with the purge can completely, just make sure you "T" the vacuum line from the vsv (vacuum switching valve) manifold i talked about earlier. then you can get rid of that whole fuel line that goes all the way back into the tank & cap it off on top of the tank.
there's also an evap canister that is useless too. plug those lines too.
after all that you can get rid of the ecm computer under the pass side kick panel.
mine is a california model that i got when i lived there, so some of the stuff i talked about might not apply to you...just a good rule of thumb is that if right off the carb, it has vacuum at idle, give it vacuum at idle by "T"ing or "X" "T"ing it. & if it has vacuum above 2000rpm, same thing give it vacuum.
as far as rejetting (with the complete needle & seat set too) & putting in the new, larger accelerator pump diaphram, i'll have to ask the guy who built it for me & where he got the parts because TRD, LCE, & downey don't look like they have them. he's a big land cruiser finatic & knows EVERYTHING about toyotas, so i let him have free reign in my horsepower department...i'll get back to you on that one.
hope that helps & feel free to hit me back if you have any more questions...
good luck man. you have a damn good little motor that is capable of making some very big horsepower....