IC, 4 Link and weight

I spent pretty much all day on SSM today at work reading different topics mostly on suspension. I definetly gained a lot of knowledge that I didnt already have. Despite all my reading I still have a few questions. Im building a sfbd first gen s10 right now. I used 3x3x1/4 for the main chassis rails under the cab and 2x3x3/16 for the backhalf. I noticed a lot of people discussing excess weight and overkill on the steel. I want to try and keep that to a minimum. I planned on using 1 3/8 3/16" wall dom for bag mounts, crossmembers etc. I realize its all about how its setup and where you support/gusset everything but in general do you see the tubing im going to use as overkill. Would 1/8" wall be sufficient? I guess my real question is how do you determine what is strong enough to use for what without going through all the engineering and calculations?I understand the concept of instant center. However, im wondering if there is any difference in which bars you put on the angle to reach the instant center. For example, ideally you want the instant center to be at the grill. Would it matter if I angled the lower bars up slightly or the uppers down slighty or both equally?Last question. For a 3 link setup you ideally want the single pivot at the axle correct? So for a triangulated 4 link would you also ideally want the narrow end of the 4 link to be at the axle or vice versa.Thank you. I appreciate all the knowledge everyone puts on here. A lot of people put this forum down so I never really came on here till today but im glad I did. Theres a lot of good info on here that I havent found anywhere else.

single pivot on a 3 link should be on the frame ideally. will keep the suspension constant instead of changing your roll center as the suspension travels

Like he said, you want the single pivot of a 3-link, or the narrow end of a 4-link on the frame side. It keeps your instant center in the same spot throughout travel and makes for a more consistent suspension system.

As far as thickness of material, I rarely use any thicker than .120 wall tubing. I use a combination of 1" 1.25" 1.5" and 1.75" tubing for cross members, bag mounts, link bars, etc. The only time I use anything 1/4" is for link tabs and balljoint plates. Everything else is .120.

he also asked about which way the angle on a tri 4 link should face narrow end on frame and wide end on rear end or vise versa, i am also curious about this i am settin up my four link and was wouldering the came thing.

he also asked about which way the angle on a tri 4 link should face narrow end on frame and wide end on rear end or vise versa, i am also curious about this i am settin up my four link and was wondering the same thing.

Originally posted by layinframe2200



he also asked about which way the angle on a tri 4 link should face narrow end on frame and wide end on rear end or vise versa, i am also curious about this i am settin up my four link and was wondering the same thing.

I also answered that in my post above.

sorry i missed it. thanks for your help.

so the way 99% of people do 3 and 4links is not right? someone shoulda pointed that out along time ago lol

Originally posted by Severed701



so the way 99% of people do 3 and 4links is not right? someone shoulda pointed that out along time ago lol

Its not actually incorrect. Its just not the best way.

Originally posted by TwistedMinis



Like he said, you want the single pivot of a 3-link, or the narrow end of a 4-link on the frame side. It keeps your instant center in the same spot throughout travel and makes for a more consistent suspension system.Did you mean roll center seth? It keeps the roll center fixed as opposed to it moving throughout its travel so it gives it stability right?