rear disc conversion ??????

i am doing a toyota disc conversion on a mazda rearend. I need some info on building a bracket to hold the rear caliper and mount to the rearend, any help would be appreciated.

I just use a schrader valve and put 100psi or so in it. As long as it doesn't leak, it will hold for ever. Then you can build brackets to it.

Damn, thats a fine idea.

hey max, while your sorta on the topic of setting up disk brakes..... i have a set of bmw rotors i was going to be putting on the rear of my brothers toyota but he decided against them.... since my ranger is the same lug pattern i was considering using them on mine instead now.question is, do i need to do anything different or run anything different to get the setup to work for me... as of right now all i have is my 7 inch booster and master cylinder and lines ran. i have this odd feeling your going to say run a proportioning valve, run your lines, hook them up and bleed em and thats it.

can you tell me a little about proportioning valves? if i add disk to the back of my ranger, do i need a dual inlet/outlet? or a single just for the back? whats neccesary? is it just for the back because of the length of the lines and the distance from the master? would i even need one? for some reason the thought of having to run one has always shunned me away from trying to run disk in the back but it doesnt seem to be anything to worry about, seems like set it up.... adjust it and roll.

thanks for your help max... i have never met you, nor asked any quesitons in the max board but i sure know how and when to appreciate somone and their knowledge, so thanks.

just use a prob valve off a RABS ranger. i did the explorer disc swap on my old 92 and didnt change jack brake wise and it worked just fine. but if you want a prop valve, get an adjustivle inline one and problem is solved. plus u can dial in the stopping power of teh rear also.

Pascal- I personally don't care for proportioning valves, they offer very little adjustment as far as I'm concerned. I have only use one once and could not keep the rear end from locking up for the life of me. So now if I am concerned about front to rear brake bias, I run a dual master cylinder with a ballance bar. It is a lot more work than you need for the street, but will allow you to move up to about 90% of the braking power to the front or to the rear with only the turn of the adjuster.

For your needs, you can probably just get away with a stock master and just run it. If you have problems, try a disk brake Explorer master and run a residual pressure valve in line if needed. I cannot give you all of the answers because every vehicle is different, but typically most vehicel use very similar caliper bore sizes and master cylinder bore sizes.