ok so i guess i didnt do enough plnning.....and i guess i wouldnt have to much of a problem had i decided to still run a 20 and not go to a 22.....basically in th epic you can see my suspension setup at full drop.....i knew from the beginning i was going to have to notch the frame rail to clear the tie rods....now running a 22 will make the notch even bigger and there lies my issues.....the toota spindle has the tie rods going in from the top which makes the need for the notch that much worse.....my questions:
can i drill the taper out and run a bolt and a heim safely and effectivley from the bottom of the spindle? i am aware i may have to adjust rack position to keep geometry correct.
i was looking into eliminating the factory rods and using a clevis and a heim on the rack and spindle ends of the tie rod. Will the allow me the articulation i may need?
And not off topic but will creating a "bent" control arm allow more room for a bag without affecting geometry?
What about something like the no-notch tie rods that are made for the S-10s? They have a bend in them so you don't have to cut the frame, maybe doing something like that could keep the notch to a minimum.
There are a few options of how to fix the steering and any one of the ones mentioned will work. I personally would lean towards mounting the heim on the bottom of the spindle and move the rack.
can i just use a drill bit to drill out the taper to fit a straight bolt? or is there something specific i need to do?
better yet i have a 7deg taper form the top right now....could i use a reamer to get a 10deg taper from the bottom? basically is there enough material to make a difference in the 2 sizes
You can simply drill a hole, or you can use one of those tapered studs either way will work fine. As long as about half of the hole is tapered you should be fine.