Problems having my slightly lowered truck aligned?

Edited: 9/5/2008 2:50:35 PM by mtm


I have a 95 splash that has been lowered with a 3/4 DJM kit. My truck sat up a lot higher in the front so I recently removed a bit of the spring to level it out. 3/4 of a coil on the driver side and 1 1/8 of a coil on the passenger side to make up for the 1/2" ranger lean difference. Anyway right now I would say that I have a 4/4 drop. So I took the truck to the alignment shop today. One with the fancy laser alignment machines. When I get back the old timer tells me he can't do anything with it? When I ask why, he says "i'm not sure what kind of suspension you have under that thing but I don't know what to do with it" So I continue to tell him about the ford I-beam suspension and he still seems confused about the whole thing so I decided to move on to the next shop. I get to the next shop and they say "Hey man no problem we can get that thing exactly where it needs to be, pick it up at 4:30." I get home and about an hour later they call me and say "Hey man the only way we are going to get this thing straight is if we heat and bend the I-beams." I mean WTF? So I brought my truck home and I've decided to tackle the job myself. I need to figure out which eccentric I need to buy in order to just get my truck as close as possible to aligned. I drove it around 25 or so miles today and it never pulled, shaked, squealed, or anything. Drove like it always does. I just want to get it as straight as I can so I don't wear out the inside of my tires. I could understand if I cut out half the spring and the camber caused the tire to rest on the perch but this is barely even noticeable. Barely a 4" drop in the front and now my truck is supposedly "unalignable?" What gives? I see guys on here with like 5-6" drop in the front and they are driving straight. I scanned the printout the first shop gave me which shows my current alignment specs. Hoping you guys could help me make better sense of it. Does the camber readings need to be 0

sounds like the shop guys were a bunch of tards lol .... i would have it sit on a level drive way and with it on the ground measure from the back part of the rotor to rotor and same with the front, when they are even it should be A okay, rangers are always going to have a negative camber problem. Im not a ranger guy so im sure someone who knows about it will be able to help you with that for sure. Good luck man, truck looks good

napa sells a +- 4 degree ecentric that is fully adjustable. i have the part number posted on rangerpowersports.com dont know what it is off the top of my head though.

there idiots. take it to another place, i guess calling would help first tho lol.

hey just a thought I know les schawbs are not everywhere but if you have one close you could take to them they did my truck that had 20s with a 4/6

sry i just just lookd at the schwab website only on the westcoast sry

I found these on www.napaonline.com. I assume this is what I need.

Camber / Caster Bushing - Front Susp

Item#: NCP2641994

Price: $13.69 tax and shipping not included

Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.

Attributes:Product Features:Made from Premium Materials for Better Service

That is all you need. Install those and then take it to a body shop to get it aligned, they should understand alignments better than a tire shop.

Originally posted by mtm



I found these on www.napaonline.com. I assume this is what I need.

Camber / Caster Bushing - Front Susp

Item#: NCP2641994

Price: $13.69 tax and shipping not included

Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.

Attributes:Product Features:Made from Premium Materials for Better Service



thats whats on my 97 with a 5/7 drop

I had those adjusters on my 97 ranger, they were bought from AIM, but they didn't make them so they actually fit. It was bagged but we just threw them in and adjusted for the most positive setting we could. Any alignment shop will usually say anything to avoid doing an I-beam truck. They have to heat the I-beams to get the bushings out, it's a real pain in the nuts.

Mark