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Interior \  Rattle Can - Interior Pieces

Rattle Can - Interior Pieces

Interior Q & A
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replies 10
following 8
 
CluCool   +1y
Edited: 9/7/2008 7:16:11 PM by CluCool

Well if I had access and know how I would use a spray gun...

With that said I am making a custom center console that hold (2) 8" subs and a 10" sub.

I am using MDF, fiberglass, bondo, and then this is where the questions start.

I have it built and I am spraying it with duplicolor primer filler.

Then I plan on sanding it with 800 grit and then spraying it with a primer.

I am not sure what primer to use, but it will have to come out of a spray can. Any suggestion?

Then I plan on using a spray can of The hopefully PB3 - Intense Blue, Pearl Coat A Dodge Dakota color.

I think I have found this color in a duplicolor spray can, can anyone confirm that this is the correct color?

Now I know there is an order of operations when it comes to making the paint shine, like wet sanding or what not.

What are the steps involved after the primer goes on?

What should I use as a clear coat?

If I put like 12 cans of spray on clear coat will this help it resist dings and scratches?

I want it to be as hard as possible, because it will be taking some frequent usage due to this is my daily driver?

Any suggestions, tips, hints, would be gratefully appreciated.
lucky_brew   +1y
if you're going to use rattle cans, use dupli-color! they have the best spraying tips out right now.
Texmextukin   +1y
Originally posted by lucky_brew



if you're going to use rattle cans, use dupli-color! they have the best spraying tips out right now.

HELL YES!!! love those tips, too bad you cant use them with other cans.
supravan   +1y
if ur goin 2 spray primer on it dont sand it will 800 use somethin like 120 180 so the primer will stick good, with 800 tha sand groves r so small that the high build primer want settle n deep enough and want stick so good
bodydropped85   +1y
most spray bomb is still lacquer...
CluCool   +1y
What does that mean Bagged85?

And how about the order of operations help?

And the clear how do I make it hard and durable for daily abuse?

Keep in mind I got no sprayer just rattle can.
low99maz   +1y
Well you should really sand with 180 to loose the grit, wetsand with 400 to smooth. Clean very well with wax as grease remover, clean agian, then use a plastic cleaning paste like Spies Hecker 7081 Plastic cleaning paste with a scotchbrite pad then let dry, then move onto paint. Adhesion promoter,highbuild,wetsand smooth,sealer/primer/paint!! From what I have learned painting plastic requires very good prep work if you dont want problems down the road!
CluCool   +1y
Edited: 9/19/2008 10:00:11 PM by CluCool

Edited: 9/19/2008 9:58:52 PM by CluCool

Edited: 9/19/2008 9:58:27 PM by CluCool

Edited: 9/19/2008 9:56:37 PM by CluCool

Here are the pics of my progress, all rattle can and it's my first paint job ever.... You may not believe me, but the random circle spots are from my camera not in the paint

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/CluCool/DSC00086.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/CluCool/DSC00087.jpg

Cant figure out how to post pictures, so here is the links
spraybomb   +1y
Looks great for a first timer. Keep up the good work. In the meantime, I'll give ya some pointers.

*Spraypaint normally comes in Enamels or Lacquers and dry by the solvents evaporating from them. Both work equally well, though lacquer dries much faster and flatter.

*Duplicolor is good stuff. Definately the best spray pattern out there.

*Clean your part with prep-sol or a wax and grease remover then spray your primer and let it dry for about an hour. Wet sand it lightly with 600 grit paper. Small areas where you may sand through the primer are OK and should not effect the paint.

*Clean the sanding residue off with some soap and water (you can try prep-sol to clean it, but because it is a solvent, it may wipe away your primer). Then dry it off.

*Paint your part with a two or three light coats untill you get full coverage.

*Spraycan clearcoat can be sprayed over the paint to mildly protect the color, but it's not as strong as a 2 part, catlyzed automotive urethane (which cure by a chemical reaction).

*Try this for a little more shine in your clear: Get a hairdryer or heat gun. Spray the clear on the surface untill it looks wet and shiny (try not to run it, lol). Quickly hold the hairdryer right over the clear. The heat will keep the humidity from attacking the clear and will cause it to dry almost immediately, keeping its shine. Obviously, you don't want to hold the hairdryer over the surface for too long or you run the risk of bubbling the clear. Do a small area at a time to keep everything under control.

*Let it sit for a few hours and your ready to roll.

*When you get more confident with yourself, check out 'Spraymax' line of 2 part primers and clears in an aerosol can. They work great if you only want to paint small parts occasionally. Unfortunately, they're a little expensive (about $17 to $20 dollars a can).

*If you want to start painting more frequently, spend the money and get yourself a spraygun and compressor. Learn how to use them and you'll find that while aerosols are quick and easy, standard automotive paints are far superior to them in quality, longevity, and good looks.
CluCool   +1y
Hey thanks for the pointers man, right now is just not the time for me to get a spray gun and compressor,but that day will come and I myself will get to experience the superiority of a spray gun vs. aerosol cans.

I will most definitely use your tips on clear coating and maybe even try out your suggestion of spraymax line of 2 part clear.


Do you think if I got the spraymax clear and did my box in small portions that it would turn out nice? or would you be able to tell it was cleared in small sections at a time?