Bagging the back of my 94 4 door blazer

Edited: 10/21/2008 10:43:14 PM by 94flamds10blazr

Ok, so I had somebody try this and fail so now Im trying to fix it. I have the old Cantilever kit from SD I got about 5-6 years ago with 21-24" adjustable round uppers and 26" lowers (hole to hole). I'm trying to go with a make it yourself 6-link by getting some new rear bars and put the bags on the rear bars. Some of the issues Im running into is that these SUVs have one rear frame rail lower than the other to let the gas filler clear so the frame is a lot lower on the drivers side. I drew up a PAINT pic before I saw the rear frame rails, then of course everybody seemed to already know about them of course.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42/forklift385/4linkidea2.jpg


So my ideas are this:
1. make a new frame from the notch back with new tank mounts probably freeing up some room in the process for my DC700 and Kinetik 2400, tank and whatever I have. Make some gas tank mounts from some 1x1, frame from 2x3 and Id probably get a few extra feet while there to SFBD it.
2. Just return some of the brackets to SD and get a pair of the behind the axle brackets and get this done and over with soon.
3. Do something like this and worry about it hitting my 17s:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42/forklift385/4dblazer03.jpg

4. Do an over the axle and worry about lift and having to go deeper into the hatch area that already needs to hold 4 12s, 3 amps, a huge battery, maybe an air tank or 2, compressor ,and LCD monitor.

Im going for two things here with this setup, no wheel hop from the LT1 engine, and to lay frame. Im not really an experienced welder with thicker stuff and warp the thinner stuff so...... but I do have a 135 amp lincoln 110 volt. I know Ill have to either take it slow with 1/4 wall or do what I can and then bring it to have someone finish it up.
Also, how deep of a notch do I need with my 235/45/17s? I might go bigger later, wifey permitting.

I know, lots of variables, tis why I never seem to get stuff done, cuz I hate to do than do over from my ignorance and lack of whatever. Thanks dude, love your column!

you'll need a 220 for 1/4" bottom line. but you don't need 1/4" wall to build a frame or back half.

so could I even just maybe do a body off and spot with the 135 and have somebody else hit it with a 220?
or do some thinner metal and go slow on the 135?

Max, where ya at? It took me forever to get the courage to ask!

i have the same welder built my whole truck with it sfbd if you use flux it burns in hotter.

flux no gas?

bump?

Sorry, I've been finishing a SEMA project. I sent you a PM.

I got a buddy that just got back from there, he was in the Century booth for camper tops and tonneau covers. 08 Tundra extended cab on bags, 2-toned with lt grey and dark grey with flames separated them on some black 24s. He got sponsored by bedrug, century, PPG, Rockstar, Yokohama, and Viair