Who has a Water-Jet?

Hey guys,
 
I had a kick-ass laser cut license plate bracket made and I love it!!! My only complaint is that I have spent so many hours trying to smooth it out to be perfect, but after hours and hours of Dremel-ing its still not where I want it to be.
 
So I'm wondering if anyone on here has access to a water-jet (which I heard makes a MUCH smoother cut). I have the file in a vectored EPS format which is what the laser people used to cut. The final product will be powdercoated, so material isn't a huge concern, but I would like it to be 3/8" thick.

 
Any ideas, suggestions or people who can help, I would appreciate it.
 
- "Downtime" Matt Hodgson

EPS is useless, i told you that before. i REDREW it from scratch. a cutter needs a dwg file & there is no "converter" for it. square up w/ me for my drafting & i'll send you the file.

I got parts laser cut from kyle (guilty by design) and there is no need for any finishing. Also from what i read laser is about the best cut your gonna get maybe whoever did it for you didnt have it set-up properly. Also im assumeing your using regular mild steel?   I have a custom 4link tab in my hand which has been water jetted and needs no finishing work either. Id go ahead and say who ever cut it messed up and had the speed to high or something of that nature

--------------------------------------------- Originally posted by loudciv EPS is useless, i told you that before. i REDREW it from scratch. a cutter needs a dwg file & there is no "converter" for it. square up w/ me for my drafting & i'll send you the file.

--------------------------------------------- I'll take care of you homey, PM me on DND or text me what you want for it (I don't remember off the top of my head). I'll get you the money. I know there are a few different formats to cut from (from what I've researched) dxf, dwg etc etc. so whatever man.

Edited: 1/19/2009 7:07:47 PM by iLLblazer

I emailed you back today, working on your quote tonight. Laser is more than capable. It really just depends on the machine, and who's running it. The laser program needs the dxf file. DWG and DXF files are both acceptable.

I have a Flow 60,000 psi water jet, it has a 6' by 12' sheet capabillity.  We work with ALOT of stainless, and the water jet won't harden the edges of a hole if you plan on tapping the hole after the cut.  And yes it is that accurate to tap a hole after being cut.  For your situation, I would need a dxf, or a dwg file format.  We just did some 2" thick tool steel, and had a .0001 taper to the hole, not bad for water and garnet.

Joel at Mindliss does great work. He even had some pictures floating around that show the nice cuts on the edges of the parts he's done. Check him out.

--------------------------------------------- Originally posted by loudciv EPS is useless, i told you that before. i REDREW it from scratch. a cutter needs a dwg file & there is no "converter" for it. square up w/ me for my drafting & i'll send you the file.

---------------------------------------------I know the thread is a few days old but thats not true. I have a converter I use for my cnc plasma table I cut out metal signs for sign companys, they use illustrator and corel draw to do the  designs, I convert them into DXF then into the G-code. now if it was a photoshop file that was saved as a eps then it is not a true vector so then it would not work.