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Mini Truckin General \  4 link tab placement

4 link tab placement

Mini Truckin General General Discussions
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standardbyker88   +1y
so, i am pissed right now. the new set of djm blocks i just put in are already cracking. less than 2 weeks old. anyways, i might end up 4 linking it sooner than later. anyways, its 20-1/2" from the front leaf hanger to the middle of the axle tube. and i have some bars that are about 23-1/2" long bolt to bolt. would it cause any problems having the back pivot 3" behind the center of the axle tube? i cant see it would if it isnt hanging way down but im not sure. thats why i ask. they are stock toyota privia minivan lower rear bars. they're pretty beefy. i got 4runner stock lowers to make into my wishbone. its going to be in a 78 toyota with coilovers or coils in the back. no bags.
 
also, do you think a 110 welder would be enough to do this stuff, with it cranked up all the way and the edges of everything chamfered/beveled down really well? maybe with mulitple passes. i dont have a 220 outlet in my shop. thanks people.

KEEF   +1y




ur gonna want ur pivots centered over axle and a 110 setup properly will do the job


insaneautoconcepts   +1y
--------------------------------------------- Originally posted by standardbyker88 so, i am pissed right now. the new set of djm blocks i just put in are already cracking. less than 2 weeks old. anyways, i might end up 4 linking it sooner than later. anyways, its 20-1/2" from the front leaf hanger to the middle of the axle tube. and i have some bars that are about 23-1/2" long bolt to bolt. would it cause any problems having the back pivot 3" behind the center of the axle tube? i cant see it would if it isnt hanging way down but im not sure. thats why i ask. they are stock toyota privia minivan lower rear bars. they're pretty beefy. i got 4runner stock lowers to make into my wishbone. its going to be in a 78 toyota with coilovers or coils in the back. no bags.   also, do you think a 110 welder would be enough to do this stuff, with it cranked up all the way and the edges of everything chamfered/beveled down really well? maybe with mulitple passes. i dont have a 220 outlet in my shop. thanks people. ---------------------------------------------So your gonna use some parts from other vehicles? Well if you decide to do so you will have to work your tab placement out with the lengths you have. You can do this with trial and error because with different length tubes you have it will probably be all trial and error. We design all of our packages first then R & D with trial and error. OLD school but works great for us. Keef is right with the 110 welder if it has the gas attachment. I would recommend it being flux core. Expessially multiple passes

TwistedMinis   +1y
You want some nicer blocks? I built these based off a DJM 4" block and the guy never picked them up.  
post photo
standardbyker88   +1y
how much seth? the reason i was asking is i dont see making them shorter being easy, and the stock spring perch on mine doesnt hang lower than frame. i could make new bars from scratch, but i got these already. what side effects would it have with the pivot a little behind centerline if the top is on center?   also, i chose the stock bars i did because i see those heavy 4wd 4runners wheelin without bending them. they have more weight and power. and the minivan is the same. and those even have the coils on the bars. mine wont be for space issues. im trying to be low budget, but dont wanna be a hack.
jdm customs   +1y
You could angle the van bars a little so the bars dont stick past the center of the axle tube as much. Thats my idea.



standardbyker88   +1y
yeah, but then i either have to cut the bars or redo the front mounts. i also thought about putting a small kink bend into them but dont know if thats wise or not.
standardbyker88   +1y
i suppose the other option would be to have them hang down lower to make them center more but i dont know about that either. anybody have any insight as to what ill effects it would produce from having it behind centerline? it is going to be a short travel setup, if that helps any.
waynehammer   +1y




just take an extra 10 minutes and cut them down. just weld a sleeve over the spot you welded them. if ur not running the coils on the bars i dont think you will have a problem.. i figured that would be alot easier then setting up your tabs wrong. well thats just what i would do..


standardbyker88   +1y
that would look like poo though. i could sleeve the inside possibly. id just shorten the ends, but one side is welded to the cast end cap and the other side tappers in to the pivot.   id still like to know why its a bad idea. anybody?