how much triangulation?

ok i'm building a satchel link for a high hp car and have calculated to have 51 degrees or trianbulation in my lowers. i know that 45 is perfect so my question is, is 51 enuff? and in regards to the link style could i run only one uper link with the lowers triangulated? or will 2 be a must?

51o should be plenty.  I would definately run 2 upper bars.

another question. as for this is going into a car that would like to keep some sort of a rear seat. if not just for looks. what are the down sides of mounting the uper bars to the front of the axle to instead of on the top? i  have seen this done a few times. this car will be used for auto cross and road racing events as well as shows. ie sema. thanx

Moving your bars around while keeping the I.C. in the same place can change the roll-steer some, but you can angle the upper bars a slight bit to change the roll-steer too. When you're asking about changes for performance reasons you are opening up a whole new can of worms. You can get away with a lot on a basic driver, but if you really plan on pushing this car, you need to do some homework. Asking me what will happen is only one piece of it. Read Carroll Smith's Tune to Win and dig around on some of these performance sites.

I have a question that deals with triangulation also Max....I recently scene a setup on a truck. It has a triangulated 4 link...and a panhard bar. This seems severely counter active to me....as the triangulated bars are keeping the rearend centered and the panhard is pulling it to one side. It's a bigass heavy truck designed to pull a 3 car wedge but I don't really see a reason in running both. The bars have plenty of triangulation so I don't see why...I'll see if I can find some good pics of the rear setup. Oh by the way....the spindles article was amazing....I stare at the pic everytime I go to the "break" room. LOL Badass work homie.

I saw the truck ur talkin about Big and really didnt see the reasoning behind the particular setup used

i think i seen it  too   lol

potter u a nut

Depending on how much travel the suspension has and how much compliance the bushings have, a system like that can work. If I were to build a tow vehicle, I think that I would definately run a pannard bar instead of triangulation. A pannard bar is simply stiffer. If the bushings wear out it's not near as sloppy as a triangulated system would be. Chances are on that truck, the triangulation allowed too much movement and the pannard was added later to cure it.

Yea i have no problem with the panhard being used since it was for towing i just personally wouldnt have done triangulated upper bars on it too