all you brake guys please read

well i bought mine off ebay and im trying to make this other one work because i spent 145 on this damn thing and i cant figure out why it wont work i read on s-10 forum ppl in newer s-10s where having probs and for some ppl they worked fine i dont know if it matters that the one i have is dual diaphragm if i understand right the only difference is that a dual makes the pedal easier to push but if this dosnt work i have to bite the bullet and buy a 80s model booster from orrileys which is an eight inch i think

Ok there is the first mistake my friend. You bought it off ebay. Next thing is it a dual or single diaphram? Sounds like the pedal rod in the booster is locked up inside. We have had a few of them do this and I tell you now if you are driving it STOP!!!! One of our boosters a couple of years ago did the same thing then sheared the pin inside. After that no brakes!!! Since that has happened we have since started selling a different brand and havent had really any problems. I would say Try to get ahold of the seller and see if he will swap it out for a new one if possible.

HAVE YOU BENCH BLED THE MASTER CYLINDER?  I BLEED THEM ON MY NISSAN AFTER CHANGING THE BOOSTER AND MASTERCYLINDER.  NO MATTER HOW MUCH I BLEED THE WHEELS IT WOULDNT WORK RIGHT TILL I BLEED THE MASTERCYLINDER ITSELF. IF YOU NEVER DONE IT ITS PRETTY EASY TO DO. JUST RUN SOME BRAKE LINES FROM THE OUTLET ON THE MASTERCYLINDERS THAT GOE TO THE WHEELS BACK IN TO THE RESERVOIR ON TOP.  BLEED IT TILL IT HAS NO AIR. THEN REINSTALL IT BACK ON AND BEFORE FLUID RUNS OUT HOOK THE BRAKELINES BACK UP. AND BLLED THE WHEELS AGAIN STATTING WITH THE FARTHEST WHEEL.    HOPE YOU UNDERSTAND MY WRITING HAHAH..  YOUD THINK IT WOULD BLEED IT SELF OUT BUT SOMETIMES IT DOES NOT AND YOU STILL HAVE  ASHIT LOAD OF AIR  IN THERE,,,,

its my fault for not researching but to sean no im not driving it and its a dual diaphragm i dont think the rods locked up because when we have the bleeders open to bleed the brakes the pedal will hit the floor its only when we close the bleeders is when it gets hard and only moves about two inches and stops. to bobby no i havent bench bled the master cylinder i really didnt think that mattered but i guess it dosent hurt to try it thanks guys for the input if anyone else has an idea keep them coming i havent drove the truck since we tubbed it and its real discouraging i really need to figure it out

OK what proportioning valve are you running. Also YES you need to bench bleed the master, also another thing you will need to make sure that the master you are running is the one to fit the booster. What type (name) of booster you running?

its the stock proportioning valve and i dont know the name of the booster its just a universal 7 inch from ebay a buddy of mine orderd them without me exploring my options so i have to deal with it but i have another one to put on since i think the one on there is bad

i know how to fix your prob, its really easy to do! go to walmart and get a for sign and put it in the window!

Do the brakes lock up while your driving? or can you just feel them grabbing a lot when your not pressing the brakes?

nah the brakes dont lock up drives fine until i put on the brakes and they get real hard it stops ok under easy braking but if i had to stop fast im screwed