Mazda B2000 / B2200... Need Engine Expert...

Anyone have a lot of experience working on these engines? Actually ALL Mazda engines in general.
 
I have a unique situation, and I need some help. This is gonna be long, so bear with me.
 
What I have is a 1987 B2000 2.0 head on a 1989 Mazda 626 2.2 block. I did this because I picked up the donor car REALLY cheap, and the blocks are virtually identical. I did have to use the timing cover and water pump setup from the 626, but as far as I can tell, nothing is really that different.
 
I also checked to make sure the water pumps flow the same way, and they do.
 
Ok, so here is what has happened so far.
 
I picked this truck up due to a blown head gasket, it had set for about 3 years and block was rusted shut.
 
My friend and I tore the engine down, had the head taken to the machine shop and completely re-done, valves, polished cam and all.
 
Found the donor 626, and snagged the block out of it. The block in it had recently been rebuilt.
 
Put everything back together and it ran good. I started driving it, and it tried to over heat on me.
 
I suspected the fan clutch, so I went and bought one. After I put it on, drove to my friends house, and checked under the hood to find water in the oil spraying out of the valve cover vent.
 
Fast forward to last weekend, it tried to overheat on me again, this time it shut off at a light but I was able to start it back up and get off the road.
 
By that time it I got off the road it was putting water in the cylinders.
 
So I tore it down again to find the head was warped. Had the head milled again, and put it all back together yesterday.
 
Fire it up, and it ran freaking fantastic better than ever!!! Let it warm up and it didn't seem to have any flow, but the temp gauge didn't go above 1/4.
 
Finally the temp gauge went to a little above 1/4 but still no flow.
 
So my friend says, we should get a radiator for it to be safe, it looks like this one is not flowing.
 
Went and bought the radiator, put it in, fired it up, lifter starts tapping. Next thing you know, the damn water starts spraying out the top end again!!!! AHHHHHHHHHH! This is JUST IDILING!!! Did not even drive it this time.
 
Tore it down,  head gasket looks like new still!!!!
 
So I'm confused as hell!!!
 
I have several questions. I found the head torque specs to be 20ft/lb incremenets to 64ft/lb and I found the torque order online.
 
The first time we only found that it should be 40ft/lb total, and I think we now know that is wrong. It should be at least the 64ft/lb.
 
We did find it appears there is a head dowel missing, but I'm not sure that would cause this as I was careful about aligning it up.
 
The only thing I can think of at this point are these two things:
 
1. The head was not torqued properly (not tight enough) Maybe my torque wrench is screwed???
2. The temp gauge is not telling me the proper temp, and maybe it got just hot enough to blow past the gasket?
3. A combination of the above two???
 
We also suspected maybe the head bolts have stretched, or maybe they are too long now that the head has been milled twice, but as far as we can tell there is plenty of depth left on the bolts.
 
I don't know! It's driving me nuts, and breaking the bank!!!
 
I just wanna drive this thing...
 
Anyone have any idea?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

do you still have the head originally from the 2.2? if so,  set them side by side and look at them to make sure that there is no difference at all.  one might have a waterport in the head where the other one doesn't and it might be blocking off waterflow to the engine and head so that would be making it overheat.  or you could buy a head gasket for both and lay them on top of each other and see what the difference is.  also, i would get new head bolts because alot of imports use torque to yeild bolts which means (in case you don't know, you might know lol) they are meant to be use ONCE.  after they are torqued down they stretch and don't recoil and they are trashed after you remove them. i hope this helps

I agree with Farmer, check that and have the head checked for cracks.  I know the mazdas have tendacy to crack when over heated.  You might have a small crack somewhere that you may not be able to see.  With that being said, it may only open up when it starts to get hot which would put all of your water in the your oil or vice versa.  These things are a pain sometimes.....thats why I swapped mine out with a 350....lol....   Billy 

yeah, i didn't think about that either.  you might wanna have it magna fluxed to check for that. good call fxcustumz

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by achievment_farmerdo you still have the head originally from the 2.2? if so,  set them side by side and look at them to make sure that there is no difference at all.  one might have a waterport in the head where the other one doesn't and it might be blocking off waterflow to the engine and head so that would be making it overheat.  or you could buy a head gasket for both and lay them on top of each other and see what the difference is.  also, i would get new head bolts because alot of imports use torque to yeild bolts which means (in case you don't know, you might know lol) they are meant to be use ONCE.  after they are torqued down they stretch and don't recoil and they are trashed after you remove them. i hope this helps---------------------------------------------Gasket for the 2.2 and 2.0 are identical. As well as other versions of this motor. Same as Forb Probe as well. Yes, I know they are a one time use...

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by fxCUSTUMZI agree with Farmer, check that and have the head checked for cracks.  I know the mazdas have tendacy to crack when over heated.  You might have a small crack somewhere that you may not be able to see.  With that being said, it may only open up when it starts to get hot which would put all of your water in the your oil or vice versa.  These things are a pain sometimes.....thats why I swapped mine out with a 350....lol.... Billy ---------------------------------------------head check for cracks by the machine shop guy...

does the engine sound like its gurgling (lol spell check) if so you have air in the system or try changing thermostat other than that im stumped cause you said waterpump rotation was same  sorry i wasnt much help hope you figure it out

I would buy a new head gasket and retorque the head bolts. They should be torqued in three steps 20, 40, and finally 65. Then run the motor till it gets to running temp pull the valve cover back off and retorque at 70. I had the same problem, I got a motor from a friend and it had be rebuilt and the head bolts wasnt tightened in the correct sequence or torque. Also if you specs try http://www.mazdatruckin.com/. Good Luck.  

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by coastautosportsI would buy a new head gasket and retorque the head bolts. They should be torqued in three steps 20, 40, and finally 65. Then run the motor till it gets to running temp pull the valve cover back off and retorque at 70. I had the same problem, I got a motor from a friend and it had be rebuilt and the head bolts wasnt tightened in the correct sequence or torque. Also if you specs try http://www.mazdatruckin.com/. Good Luck.  ---------------------------------------------yeah that is exactly where (mazdatruckin.com) i got the instructions for the torqure specs... the only thing we didn't do was re-torque... guess we can try that this time.on a good note... i should have wheels on it today... LOL i can sit and look at it in my drive way.... mmmmm purty wheels LOL i'll post a pic later i have to laugh or i'm gonna lose my mind from this

you cant magnaflux an aluminum head, it needs to go in a pressure tank. my thought was both of what these guys said, either a crack or a water port not lining up.