20runner
+1y
On my old WDMASTR, I didn't have to notch for tie-rods with a 245-35-20, and it laid hard. SFBD would be the route I would go because the frame is only like 1/2" from the rocker panels, so you have to weld a filler in straight up and down, and I like to trim the floor a little and lay the filler in at an angle for more strength. Like mentioned above, the frame kicks down in front of the back wheels, not only for the bars, but for added strength where the frame kicks in drastically to go in between the tires. (the frames are REALLY WIDE under doors). The frame also kicks down behind the front wheels as well for strength, so until you drag those spots off, the car doesn't actually lay frame. I drug my car until the bottom of my front crossmember fell out, floor board behind front seat was thinned out, and drug through the lower 4 link bars, so beware. If you cut the low spots off the frame, it'll sit about 3/4" lower or so. for a SFBD, I would "Z" the front frame the amount needed and cut the bottom of the frame off and build a tranny and driveshaft tunnel, AND raise the floor boards in a few spots, unless you wanna Flintstone the mother fucker. Also need to raise gas tank as well, but I would do that even if laying the original frame on ground. I think a piece of 2x3 for frame rails would lay body, but not 100% sure, and mine is not here to measure. ALSO, the frames on the wagon are boxed, the sedans are "c" channel. Hope this helps out.