Putting a carrier bearing in a Reg cab full size?

Edited: 7/6/2009 3:05:41 PM by low mazda

OK MAX, I have never asked you any questions on here, so this is a first.
 
When I set up my truck, I didn't have a driveshaft that fit, so I just went with wheelbase distance. This is an 88 GMC with a long one piece driveshaft.  So I made a tranny x-member and set my output shaft angle at about 3 degrees down, so then I set my pinion angle at about 3 degrees up. I was told they need to be as close to opposite as possible. Well, I have them damn near perfect and equaling out at zero.
 
When I added my crossmember for my upper bars, I didn't think about driveshaft, I have no clue why, but anyhow, my crossmember is in the way of where the driveshaft would go up and down with the suspension. My options would be to cut it all out, which it's all fully welded and painted already, or go with a carrier bearing in this location. I have to find a driveshaft anyhow, so what would be the downside of using a two piece driveshaft with the carrier bearing about halfway between the tranny and rear end? The carrier bearing would be almost exactly halfway in the middle with probably two 2ft driveshafts. I could get a driveshaft setup out of an ex cab or suburban or something of the sort and use that setup.
 
I guess, what I am asking, is, will this cause a problem? Or would my best bet be to cut it all out and re-do that front crossmember/mounting location for my upper bars?

you will probably have a problem with the rear shaft.  short driveshafts and alot of travel = severe angles.  this can also be stress on a carrier bearing, and i know that the carrier bearings is usually the first thing to burn up when it doesn't like the angles of the driveshafts. personally i would just rebuild that one crossmember and reuse the stock driveshaft.  you will save yourself a headache in the end.

setting up a 2 piece drive shaft can get tricky. i would just redo the crossmember.

A 2 piece driveshaft wouldn't be much of a problem at all. Some of them have a telescoping rear shaft to eliminate the plunge issues that James and Matt are concerned about. A good driveline shop should be able to help you set everything up right.

That's actually what I had in mind. Kind of like a "SLIP YOKE" setup in a 4wd. Basically my front driveshaft would be completely non moveable except turning. Then the rear driveshaft could have the "slip yoke" for the "plunging" that everyone is talking about. I knew my 3 years of college in pre-engineering did me some good, along with all the years playing with 4wds and buidling JEEPS and Toyotas.  Now my problem is to find a good driveline shop to do what I need.