How would you mount Hydros in this Situation?

Heres a picture of my rear swing arm. I need to extend the swing arm so the tire stops hitting the door, but where would you mount a hydro cylinder. I was thinking of replacing the shock with the cylinder, but I'm worried that, that spot can't hold up the weight of a car and might break the bolts and cause damage. Any Ideas? When I build the new swing arm I will probobly mount it in the shock location, but build a beefier lower mount, but thats after I get the hydros in. One thing at a time. This is my DD. (I know the pic won't work, so heres the link to it and if someone can post it that would be great.)  

I think in this circumstance I'd ditch the shock altogeher and weld a power ball to the lower traiing arm to the lower spring cup (where the bottom of the bag is) and drill out the top mount to accept the cylinder to come through with a donut using a small spacer...or run no spacer and one of our cylinder stroke extensions...of course running no coils and accumulators. 

I've seen rear trailing arms like this before, but not with the eyelet shock on both ends.   

Depends on whats inside the car above the shock and bag. If you can't run the cylinder inside of the car, your best bet would be to double shear the shock mount, bolt a hiem on the bottom of the cylinder, and weld a mount off the unibody for the cylinder to go through. Then you could keep it all in the wheel well and not drill into the back seat of the car (which is what it looks like you would have to do.) You may have to run a 6" cylinder for this application.

Well if I do the power ball in that spring pocket and go straight up it goes into the trunk. So thats an option. Problem is that as that trailing arm sits now when aired out it pulls forward and hits the inner fender/door and tops. I want to move the wheel back so a new tailing arm needs to be made. Also I've tossed around the idea of building a rear box frame and getting some control arms off of a IRS car and seeing if that would work. And from talking to Garagebuilt (bagged HHR) he said I would be best to make a rear "axle" and then fab up a 2link swing arm thing and tub the trunk a bit. I'm not to worred about cutting up the car since the warrantee is done and Saturn is no more anyways, but I need something to get my by till I can get rear end figured out.

For the mean time I was thinking running a hiem on the top of the cylinder and bolting that in and then a eyelet on the side and bolting it inplace of the shock. It would only be like that for about... 2 maybe 3 months. I have to do it in baby steps as I do this on a students budget and to fund more mods I need to sell the air after I replace to hydros and still keep the car on the road. (Going to the bar and back)

 

Any other ideas though? I like both that have been stated so far.

Edited: 7/10/2009 9:24:36 AM by garagebuilt

hey not sure if i showed you this adam. before i made a new 2link i added an inch to the hangers and redrilled holes. took about 2 hours start to finish. just  a suggestion for a temp. fix. i moved my shocks up on the inner fender and i can say i would not want anything other than shocks mounted there. i know nothing bout hydros but i think a short cylinder where the shoc is would be a good idea. i also extended the lower shock mount so that would be an option to get a bigger cylinder to fit  this pic shows how my shock is now. there is about .5" between the stud and the rim. it would be a tight squeeze to get a cylinder in there.  the sheet metal is thin here.the ribs on the inner fender are the only strength there.i used the biggest washer i could find to distribute the load.  heres a drawing

Any other ideas?

use the stock shock location with a rod end at the top. Cut the bottom shock mount off and replace with a spherical bearing/cup. Make a fitting/bolt to go through the bearing and run the line from the bottom. Better yet, if this is possible. Make a Hydroholics cylinder with a shorter shaft than the casing, like a 10" case and a 6" shaft. Plug the fitting hole and make a new fitting location out the side just past the end of the shaft. Use a hydroholics sleeve and weld one side close. Weld a spherical bearing/cup to the closed side. Cut of bottom shock mount off the rear arm and replace with two tabs 3-4  inches lower. Use a rod end on the other side to the stock upper mount. This gives height to stroke adjustability and solid mounting with hopefully no binding.