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Foreign Cars (honda, etc) \  not sure exactly where to post my question bout my new vw project......

not sure exactly where to post my question bout my new vw project......

Foreign Cars (honda, etc) General Discussions
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JUICED03   +1y
ok im not sure where to post because it is not a car vw or a new car it is a 57 vw singlecab.... alot like the one in my pics on my profile i bagged but 2 door instead of 4 with long ass bed..... o dont have pics of it yet but im juicing it and want to know what type of accumilators should i run??? im using my set up out of my mazda protege and have all cce shit and dont like the ones im running right now.. they help the ride but my mazda has struts at all corners so all my strokes are flipped .. if i install them right side up will the accumilators i own ride better or am i better off replacing them????
AON-JAMES   +1y
Edited: 7/23/2009 5:50:06 PM by ONEPUMPEDWAGON

Sean, your CCE Accumulators are just fine, a lot of your ride quality with your protege has to do with the cylinders being upside down on all four corners, as well as the pressure inside of them. The CCEs are adjustable, I have the fitting, feel free to come by and use it whenever you want. I feel that the Parkers have a better build quality, but my Ford rode fine on the CCEs. Hit me up! 702.883.0364 anytime you need something. As far as ordering Parkers check out http://www.hydroholics.net/, I also recommend their cylinders & sleeves for your new car, they'll make it a lot easier. Trust me.
AON-OFFDAHOOK   +1y


Depends on the suspension and also what charge you have your accumulators set to.  Macpherson strut hydraulics like in your Mazda have 2 jobs: They have to lift and they also have to hold the front suspension upright and take a lot of pressure from the side which is why they aren't going to be a cloud like having upper control arms, however if you play with the charge psi you'll be able to get it in it's sweet spot.  If your new suspension is doing nothing but lifting and dropping (they didn't have mac struts in '57 - I don't think) with the proper charge it should ride beautiful.  Also, the proper oil and your cylinders can also affect the ride quality. 
AON-4PumpedCL   +1y
Edited: 7/23/2009 6:11:33 PM by AON-4PumpedCL

Sean,  I have a '57 Bug that I plan to juice soon.  Here's an idea I had...  In the front where you would typically weld in adjusters, you put in a hydraulic cylinder (only using about an inch of stroke) which would turn the torsion leafs in the beam.  By doing this you still use the factory spring rate (torsion leafs) and shocks (if you don't narrow the front beam too much).  I was trying to come up with a way to use a cylinder to adjust the rear torsion bars but haven't gotten that far yet.  Sounds like a great project though!  Keep us posted.
Juiced202   +1y
---------------------------------------------Originally posted by AON-OFFDAHOOKDepends on the suspension and also what charge you have your accumulators set to.  Macpherson strut hydraulics like in your Mazda have 2 jobs: They have to lift and they also have to hold the front suspension upright and take a lot of pressure from the side which is why they aren't going to be a cloud like having upper control arms, however if you play with the charge psi you'll be able to get it in it's sweet spot.  If your new suspension is doing nothing but lifting and dropping (they didn't have mac struts in '57 - I don't think) with the proper charge it should ride beautiful.  Also, the proper oil and your cylinders can also affect the ride quality.  --------------------------------------------- How many times do I have to tell you? it's = it is and its = possessive it Teach, why are you not doing your job?? 
JUICED03   +1y


---------------------------------------------Originally posted by AON-4PumpedCLEdited: 7/23/2009 6:11:33 PM by AON-4PumpedCLSean,  I have a '57 Bug that I plan to juice soon.  Here's an idea I had...  In the front where you would typically weld in adjusters, you put in a hydraulic cylinder (only using about an inch of stroke) which would turn the torsion leafs in the beam.  By doing this you still use the factory spring rate (torsion leafs) and shocks (if you don't narrow the front beam too much).  I was trying to come up with a way to use a cylinder to adjust the rear torsion bars but haven't gotten that far yet.  Sounds like a great project though!  Keep us posted. ---------------------------------------------i cut the whole bus rearend out already and im running a type 3 rear end (out of squareback wagon) and in order to lay frame on this bus i have  to narrow the beam 5 inches... im not gonna run torsions at all in the rear and want to run 2 strokes up front to hit sides ... if possible 10 inches of lift... just a matter of seing if my plans work
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