threads
Page 1 of 3
Air Ride Suspensions \  hydraulics

hydraulics

Air Ride Suspensions Q & A
views 1217
replies 21
following 13
 
1lowrngr   +1y
im new to the hydros i have a simple ag set up and wanting to switch over i have a 87 ford ranger and wanting to juice so if some one could give me all the knowledge to do it i have a good understanding of them i just dont know how to mount the cylinders and what accumalators are? if theres any one that can help thank you and what do i need to look for when im buying a kit?
tre5   +1y


HYDROHOLICS.NET let me know if you have anymore questions after reading the website.
1lowrngr   +1y

i will thank you
tattedfordguy   +1y

Jeez i guess you live in the right erea.
AON-4PumpedCL   +1y


---------------------------------------------Originally posted by tattedfordguyJeez i guess you live in the right erea.---------------------------------------------LOL.  You're right in the heart of hydraulic heavens land.  Also check out www.myspace.com/hydroholicsllc 
1lowrngr   +1y

is there any reason to run larger cylinders out back? and do you have any pictures of how theyd mount up on i beams?
AON-OFFDAHOOK   +1y


---------------------------------------------Originally posted by 1lowrngris there any reason to run larger cylinders out back? and do you have any pictures of how theyd mount up on i beams?---------------------------------------------Most people run longer cylinders in the rear so when the truck/car is locked up it looks even rather than have a reverse rake on it.  I don't have any pictures, but typical (simple way) is that you use the upper and lower spring cups running a powerball on the lower and a donut welded into the upper with a spacer (no spring) and use accumulators. You can also use a shorter cylinder and built a mount off the pivot point of the i-beam for leverage if you wanted to.  If/when you juice it and are looking for some nice parts be sure to hit us up. 
tre5   +1y


The reason you normally run a longer cylinder in the rear is because the front is mounted on an arm (lower control arm, I beam, whatever), so there is leverage on it. Basically you get more than 8" of lift from a 8" cylinder because it is mounted inward on the arm. In the rear the cylinders are normally mounted on the axle, so it is not a leverage setup. A 10" cylinder only gets 10" of lift in the rear because of this. So basically 8's in the front and 10's in the rear will lift the vehicle close to level when locked up. For the mounting of the cylinder up front you should get the stock spring and shock mount out of there. Just grind off the rivots holding it on and completely remove the entire thing. Then you will need to make a plate off the frame with the correct size hole in it (size of the hole depends on what cylinders you buy). I would mount it towards the top of the frame then gusset the sides downward. If you are using Hydroholics cylinders then get the adjustable threaded colar so you can adjust it to the prefect height. If not then just use a tube to space the cylinder correctly. For the lower mount you are going to have to fab up a mount for a heim joint. Use the radius arm bolts. Basically an upsidedown fork... two tabs on the sides with holes for the heim joint bolt and a hole in the bottom plate for the radius arm bolt. I don't have pics, but if you want... since you are in town I could come by to "show you the light."
aon-teach   +1y

Matt give me a call. I can hook you up with these guys direct if you decide to switch. Matt is one of my former students guys.
purpl7duece   +1y
---------------------------------------------Originally posted by AON-TeachMatt give me a call. I can hook you up with these guys direct if you decide to switch. Matt is one of my former students guys.--------------------------------------------- I always try and talk car stuff to the kids at the school I work at and all they wanna here is big rims or racer hondas. We had one kid that would drive his brothers BD'd taco sometimes though.