spherical bearing upper ball joint

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by TuckingLugs05would you machine a shaft to fit the toyota spindle

--------------------------------------------- well this was my next question but i guess o well.....i am using toyota geometry but i am not using toyota upper arms.....i would love to just have a shaft like you used to make in the uni-joint kits for my toyota spindles.....if you dont mind me asking.....why dont you sell just the shaft? If you wont sell it then it looks lke i will have to drill it out to fit a bolt...but if it doesn't work i am screwed on a set of drop spindles.....which i why i was lookin to go this route

What keeps that upper balljoint setup from rotating in the same axis as the steering does? I was thinking about doing this but I felt that I needed some type of setup to keep it from rotating.

nothing but then again that wont affect anything...it could actually benefit becasue then you would not have the steering limited like you would if you just had a uni ball welded on there.

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by Chopped Mazda---------------------------------------------Originally posted by TuckingLugs05would you machine a shaft to fit the toyota spindle

--------------------------------------------if I was building control arms for you, i would for sure.  But, i dont make them alone, only in control arm kits.  Taylor---------------------------------------------How about modifying someones existing uni-joint to accept the smooth cap instead of the acorn nut on top...how much would you charge to do that.

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by e10pvmtnothing but then again that wont affect anything...it could actually benefit becasue then you would not have the steering limited like you would if you just had a uni ball welded on there.--------------------------------------------- If the tapered portion is moving when you are turning to the point that the bearing maxes out then it is not tight enough and it will probably break. The point of having a taper is that it will seat tightly and not spin after it is tightened. Why not just have a cup welded to the spindle? You can modify the spindle in order to keep the same pivot location as the balljoint. I am more comfortable with this design anyways.

Edited: 12/22/2009 9:52:42 PM by toreadorxlt

I am more comfortable making a setup like this than I am modifying a cast drop spindle with a MIG welder...  

Edited: 12/22/2009 10:00:01 PM by TwistedMinis

I wouldn't do it with a MIG welder either. That's why I suggested having it welded, as in by someone that has experience in the area. Althought that might not be the best thing to suggest. Max has brought up the point before about the inexperienced welding to cast steel.

This is how i did mine. I cut the taper part off an old ball joint and tig it to the bearing cup to set it up on my spindle. Made some other pieces to weld to the cup first, so it will also have more area  welded to the spindle. That way the bottom of the cup is not the only space welded to the spindle. Giving it more support. Mine is fully welded and bolted also. I had someone with experience help me tig to the spindle. I would never weld to cast without someone with the experience of doing so. Only reason I did this is because I could only get 10" of lift with the stock toyota upper ball joint. Stock toyota frame with drop spindle should lay out on 22s just wont get enough lift to clear fenders.i     Last pic is on the old frame.  

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by TwistedMinisIf the tapered portion is moving when you are turning to the point that the bearing maxes out then it is not tight enough and it will probably break. The point of having a taper is that it will seat tightly and not spin after it is tightened. Why not just have a cup welded to the spindle? You can modify the spindle in order to keep the same pivot location as the balljoint. I am more comfortable with this design anyways. --------------------------------------------- Ok so what if i put say a spindle stop on the lower arm to keep the spindle from turning past what the bearing will allow similar to what an s-10 lower arm has.....as i have said i don't have anyone to weld the sleeve to my spindle so i am looking for an alternative way of accomplishing the same thing....but i of course want it to work and be safe.  LoAsian.....i like what you have done and that may be a viable option but i would still need to find someone to weld to cast.....i too am using a toyota front clip t)o design my front suspension (stock dimensions but all made out of new 2x3.....but i may even lengthen the arms equally to push my wheels closer to the rear track width....i think it may be to narrow now...so either lengthen the arms which may solve my problems...or widen the clip in the center.

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