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Body work and Paint \  Clearing Bare Metal

Clearing Bare Metal

Body work and Paint Q & A
views 395
replies 9
following 8
 
tealchevy   +1y
First off, I am aware there are other topics on this, but they are a few years old.

I am wanting to "clear" an entire body. I have had a few different ways to do this told to me. Transparent sealer, bully dog promoter with regular clear, or a specialty clear made for bare metal applications. This will be applied to a daily driver and need to last. Are there any new products available for this? To the experienced paint guys, what is your take on this?

Thanks
Mulligan   +1y
youre screwed haha jk the most important thing is making sure EVERY inch of the body is stripped, degreased with NO contaminants.  I have seen some parts done, and flames in bare metal then cleared over and some points rust starts and travels under the clear, its an easy fix tho if rust does appear, just sand the clear and surface rust off and re clear that area, shouldnt be hard as youre not looking for a perfect clear, buffed finish
Pacificustoms   +1y

I believe POR 15 makes a clear.  Wouldn't be a show finish or anything, but probably one of the more durable ways to go, next to powdercoating the entire body clear...
slammedcivicsi   +1y
The problem with clearing metal is adhesion. Clear etch primers simply dont have the acids in them to bite into the steel, or the zinc phosphates to provide corrosion protection. So if you just clean your steel and clear it, you will need a really good mechanical adhesion to insure it wont peel. Either way, its obviously not recommended, but then again, most of the stuff custom isnt recommended. -Brad
Just_Robert   +1y

Clear powdercoating would be your best bet.
bbb   +1y

Dupont makes a product called Metalok that is clear,Then you clear over that.I am not sure what the number is but the dupont rep told me it was expensive. I think it is a water base too. i think 230s
68ledsled   +1y
I have done it on aluminum  before with no problems but steel is a whole other thing. But if I was going to do it I would do it one panel at a time with a 3m 36 grit roloc as soon as you grind it wipe down with some thinner and clear it. The reason I would do it one panel at a time is that the panel won't get contaminated  while your doing the other ones
slammedxonair   +1y

I would say powdercoating.
Just_Robert   +1y
---------------------------------------------Originally posted by 68ledsledI have done it on aluminum  before with no problems but steel is a whole other thing. But if I was going to do it I would do it one panel at a time with a 3m 36 grit roloc as soon as you grind it wipe down with some thinner and clear it. The reason I would do it one panel at a time is that the panel won't get contaminated  while your doing the other ones---------------------------------------------I would think he wants to metal finish it after the 36G, but knowing Chris, you never know.
tealchevy   +1y
more like a 180

I think the metalok, bully dog, eastwood diamond clear might be the way im going. im going to test the gate and roll it for a couple months to see what it does in the weather.

a gallon of metalok is running about 75 bucks, 20 bucks for a can of bully dog and 20 for a quart of the diamond clear
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