nvrhapy
+1y
i painted a peice with a silver basecoat and then went over it with clear mixed with alsa candy concentrate. my question is i ran out of time yesterday before i could lay the final clear coat. what should i do? can i still shoot it with clear or will i have to wet sand the peice before i apply the final clear? or would it be better just to leave it
nissandoordragger
+1y
wet sand it with 800 then clear it but be carfull not to sand to much of being your sanding a kandy with no protection or you could wet scuff it with a grey scuff pad witch may be a better option
wet sand it with 800 then clear it but be carfull not to sand to much of being your sanding a kandy with no protection or you could wet scuff it with a grey scuff pad witch may be a better option
sik_kreations
+1y
u shot a 2k clear mixed with candy or intercoat? if its basecoat and not activated, shoot a coat of intercoat clear and then clear it, add a little more reducer to get it to bite back in. if its clear clear, then u need to lightly go over it with a red scuff pad to knock the shine.
u shot a 2k clear mixed with candy or intercoat? if its basecoat and not activated, shoot a coat of intercoat clear and then clear it, add a little more reducer to get it to bite back in. if its clear clear, then u need to lightly go over it with a red scuff pad to knock the shine.
maz2low
+1y
---------------------------------------------Originally posted by sik_kreationsu shot a 2k clear mixed with candy or intercoat? if its basecoat and not activated, shoot a coat of intercoat clear and then clear it, add a little more reducer to get it to bite back in. if its clear clear, then u need to lightly go over it with a red scuff pad to knock the shine.---------------------------------------------A red scuff pad would destroy it, 3M Red/Burgandy scuff is equivalent to P400 grit sandpaper. The 3M GRAY SCUFF is what he needs to use and even then it's best to flatten clear out with P1000 grit and reclear after, not having to buff out if sprayed properly after.
---------------------------------------------Originally posted by sik_kreationsu shot a 2k clear mixed with candy or intercoat? if its basecoat and not activated, shoot a coat of intercoat clear and then clear it, add a little more reducer to get it to bite back in. if its clear clear, then u need to lightly go over it with a red scuff pad to knock the shine.---------------------------------------------A red scuff pad would destroy it, 3M Red/Burgandy scuff is equivalent to P400 grit sandpaper. The 3M GRAY SCUFF is what he needs to use and even then it's best to flatten clear out with P1000 grit and reclear after, not having to buff out if sprayed properly after.
sik_kreations
+1y
---------------------------------------------Originally posted by Maz2low---------------------------------------------Originally posted by sik_kreationsu shot a 2k clear mixed with candy or intercoat? if its basecoat and not activated, shoot a coat of intercoat clear and then clear it, add a little more reducer to get it to bite back in. if its clear clear, then u need to lightly go over it with a red scuff pad to knock the shine.---------------------------------------------A red scuff pad would destroy it, 3M Red/Burgandy scuff is equivalent to P400 grit sandpaper. The 3M GRAY SCUFF is what he needs to use and even then it's best to flatten clear out with P1000 grit and reclear after, not having to buff out if sprayed properly after.---------------------------------------------it wont destroy it. hok recommends a red scuff pad if u do not clear uk kandy(y someone would candy without clearing) i scuff all custom jobs with red over grey. grits for collision and custom vary. besdies, u dont have to dig into it. and 1k is too fine for re clear. (only time i would do that is for blending clear, again collision shit)
---------------------------------------------Originally posted by Maz2low---------------------------------------------Originally posted by sik_kreationsu shot a 2k clear mixed with candy or intercoat? if its basecoat and not activated, shoot a coat of intercoat clear and then clear it, add a little more reducer to get it to bite back in. if its clear clear, then u need to lightly go over it with a red scuff pad to knock the shine.---------------------------------------------A red scuff pad would destroy it, 3M Red/Burgandy scuff is equivalent to P400 grit sandpaper. The 3M GRAY SCUFF is what he needs to use and even then it's best to flatten clear out with P1000 grit and reclear after, not having to buff out if sprayed properly after.---------------------------------------------it wont destroy it. hok recommends a red scuff pad if u do not clear uk kandy(y someone would candy without clearing) i scuff all custom jobs with red over grey. grits for collision and custom vary. besdies, u dont have to dig into it. and 1k is too fine for re clear. (only time i would do that is for blending clear, again collision shit)
nvrhapy
+1y
yup crystal fx and no it didnt bleed the part that has the crystal fx is raised like a cowl hood thats why it looks like that
yup crystal fx and no it didnt bleed the part that has the crystal fx is raised like a cowl hood thats why it looks like that
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