F150 by Tre5 Customs

Getting closer! I even hooked the battery up for a minute to make sure it still ran after moving everything and extending 77 wires (I counted them!). Hopefully I will be able to finish it up tomorrow. I just have to cut the bed floor and mount up the tank, compressors, valve block and batteries.

That's what I have been waiting to see. Do the shock mounts limit steering any? Looking really nice by the way.

Looks amazing. Bet it feels great to work on your own ride.

The shocks do not limit the steering. The wheel actually hit the control arm first, but just barely. Just a note to Taylor or anyone else buying these arms for these trucks... They will work on 22" wheels, but the lower ball joint cup had to be sanded a tad to clear them. I forgot to get a pic of the area I sanded, but I will snap one tomorrow. No big deal, took me about 30 seconds to sand it down. Obviously if you are running 24" wheels you will not have an issue. I would also like to let everyone know... These arms required me to cut NOTHING for the lower control arm or steering! I made the steering pieces to use a 3/4" heim and flipped it to the bottom of the spindle. I know Taylor already makes these pieces, but he was out of them when I placed my order and I told him to not worry about them and I would make my own. I couldn't be happier with the product and service from Michigan Metal Works!

i saw you put the explorer booster in this. what booster do you use for the 88-98 chevys with 24's just wondering thanks man

I use the 7" chrome ones on the chevy. They bolt right up. You can also get proportioning valves for them that are made for disc/ disc or disc/ drum that are chrome as well. Then run residual valves and lose the abs... if you want.

Looks good!

Edited: 6/7/2011 6:47:30 AM by Chopped Mazda

Jeremy, whenever you have a chance i would love to see what you had to trim on those cups to get the 22s on there. I figure i know all ready the area that needed sanded a bit, but seeing it would be great.

I think what you and I were talking about last week would be a great change for the arm, so i might start offering like that instead of the FSC ball joint. I also came up with a design last week that would bolt into the stock location on the spindle just like the factory ball joint did, and not require any reaming, or drilling of the lower spindle. It adds a significant cost to the control arm, so im not sure how feasable it will be in the long run, but the next set of these I do with get that upgrade for free, so i can see it in action.

The truck i had in here that i mocked these up with did have a 24 on it, so i had no clerance issues, so i would love to see it with a 22 from the back side. I didnt have any customers mention this yet, so some pictures would help!

Its terrible, you have built your ford start to finish in under 2 weeks... ive had my c10 project going for 7 months now and were about at the same point lol, FML.

Awesome work!!!!!



Taylor

Jeremy, What size bolt did you drill out the spindles for the new tierod ends, if at all.... 3/4 hiem joint, did you use right and left handed threads? I need to order the same for my lightning.. Sweet and fast build, time for you to open a shop in FL....lol

I used the factory inner tie rods and welded a threaded bung to that (after I cut about an inch off), then sleeved the entire assembly with a piece of 1-1/4" x .120 chromoly. Since the factory inner tie rods are left and right, I used left and right heims so the assembly can be adjusted without taking the steering apart. I used 3/4-5/8 spacers, so they reduce the size of the bolt to 5/8" and that is what I drilled the spindle to.

Here is the pic of the lower ball joint piece sanded down. My wheels have a hump on them right where the ball joint sits. So you may not have to sand them on every set of 22's out there.