88-98 Chevy control arms 1500 vs. 2500

I've been getting answers of yes, no, and I don't know. Maybe someone here knows for sure the answer. I'm working with a '96 Chevy 1500 single cab 2WD. Will the control arms and spindles from a 88-98 3/4 ton 2WD Chevy bolt onto my 1/2 ton frame? I'm trying to get the 8-lug hubs onto this frame. I plan to re-use the 1500 springs, but I'm curious about the control arms and spindles. I'm hoping someone knows for sure that they will bolt up and it can be aligned properly. Like I said, I've gotten answers both ways. Hope someone here knows. Thanks!

Yes, I've put 1/2 ton shit on a 3/4 ton.

it bolts right on, real simple!



Taylor

yes the 2500 control arm will bolt rt in. and if your using the 2500 ball joint and 8lug 2500 spindle its all a simple bolt in process. but if ur trying to do a 2500 control arm and a 5lug 1500 spindle there is a little more work involved but it can be done

Finally, someone that has actually done it! Through my research the past couple of days, I've found that the lower control arm is the exact same part number for the 1500 and the 2500. Same goes for the outter tie rod end. I put brand new upper control arms from Autozone next to each other and measured them. Both 1500 and 2500 upper arms are the same width and length. The only difference is the angle that the ball joint is mounted into the arm itself. I was hoping that the difference in angle was made up in the spindle and that everything would be fine. I've talked to a bunch of people that say "yes, it will work", but nobody that has actually done it. That's awesome. Thanks! My plan is to swap the 2500 control arms and spindle onto my 1500 frame. I'll use the 1500 springs. Thanks again!

i just got done putn' 2500 arms on my 94 1500 truck. im using A.R.T. lower control arms, 1500 5lug bel tech 2in drop spindle, slam ss7 bags, so with the 2500 upper arm the ball joint is bigger and gets less travel than the 1500 ball joint. i could of used a ball joint reamer but the 2500 ball joint gets less travel and alot of people i talked to frowned on reaming the ball joint hole. so i was told to do it like this . . . i got the 2500 arm and a 1500 ball joint and the holes didnt line up so i grinded a LIL bit of the arm where the ball joint goes (and hits) to get the two outer holes to line up, then i went on to fill the two back holes, i cleaned up the holes with a drill bit that barly didnt fit so i had nice clean holes, then i found a piece of copper to block one side of the hole and clamped it to the arm with vice grips, i pre heated the holes a lil bit with a small torch (dont cherry it) and i filled them with my wire fed welder. after they cooled i placed my 1500 ball joint on the arm lining up the two outer holes and sprayed the two back holes with spray paint to kinda stincle it, now it was time to drill the holes i sugest to center punch the dots, use a drill press, and the best drill bits you can find, i learned the hard way lol. after all that i put it all together and wala . . . poor mans uppers for a 1500

so thats how you do it if you wana go 5lug but your goin 8lug why

Edited: 8/12/2011 11:08:50 AM by Monster Ranger

I have a 96 Chevy 1500 rolling chassis, a complete but wrecked 04 GM 2500, and a 04 Ford Ranger body. The 6.0 V8, tranny and rear end from the GM is going in the 96 chassis. Then the Ranger body is going on top of that. I already have a nice set of 18's with 35" tires that are 8 lug. Just need to swap the front end to 8 lug and I'm good to go.

lifted on control arms and 2wd . . . . pre runner?????

For now, just a lifted ranger with a 6.0L V8. After I get it back on the road, then I can start getting parts together and make plans for it to be a prerunner. I have a control arm setup drawn in CAD on my computer that will give me 21" of travel front and rear. Just don't have the cash for it now. At least I can get it on the road for now. The Ranger in question is the one in my avatar.