It appears this site is R.I.P.ped since the change in format, so sad, I enjoyED it.
B2600i, automatic. Interior is fair to better! Have to get title bond, on hold until then.
http://s304.photobucket.com/user/Geturdun/media/100_1285_zpsw3hyf8un.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
http://s304.photobucket.com/user/Geturdun/media/100_1284_zpsws4t9jyq.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
If they aren't here, here is where they are ^.
Or here:
http://www.mazdabscene.com/userphotos/album/7368/page
Tag leads me to believe been dead since 2004-5. Computer is missing.
Have checked, fuel tank is bad, needs master cylinder. Remains to check compression, therein will be the deciding factor: pull the 4.3 from the '90 model that was fired up (under hood fire, carb secondary bowl overflowed) and set into this one. I expect good compression, after all ONLY 149,000 miles!
The getting it was an ordeal. It was two hours away, close, right? I drove down to see it Feb. 1. I decided to take get it $450, from asking $1000. We hooked up my "home made for Mazda trucks" tow bar. Jacking it up started disconnecting rear u-joint. I loosen three bolts, and asked the Anthony (The Guy) to shift it out of park. He did, but the rearend would not turn half a turn! I got the bolts out, tied the drive shaft up and crawled out from under. The left rear wheel had five nuts on six studs. The sixth appeared sheared, but after turning the wheel as far as it would each way, I noticed the sheared stud had move out a little. I grabbed it and pulled it out until the knurled base contacted the hole it should be driven into. So this was the problem. The end was too messed up to start a lug on to pull it into place. I pulled the wheel off, and tried to loosen the screws holding the drum on. They would not budge, used and punch, which I happened to bring and a hammer the guy provided. No luck, as a machinist/tool and die fellow, neither would turn. i did not bring my cordless drill, luckily the guy had one and the important number of extension cords to reach the truck without having to move it. I did bring a case of tools which included drill bits. I drilled into the screw heads with an 1/8" bit deep enough to be beyond tapered head of the two screws. I stepped up to 1/4" then 5/16", heads came off, then pulled the drums. That only took 8-10 minutes of opposite side prying and hammer bangs on the drum o.d. to remove it. In hind sight, I should have, with pliers to make it tight, simply twisted a piece of wire around the lug really tight until after home, so it could not dlip in during pull home..
Anywho, I got on the road home, but could not get over 30, in second gear (automatic). I stopped after a 1/4 mile and went back to the truck. The right front tire area was smoking and smelled of hot brakes. I jacked it up, pulled the rim/tire off, removed the brake caliper, removed the very hot new brake pads, replaced the caliper..
I towed it home, with no other problem(s), time gone: 7 1/2 hours, 2 hours-10 minutes of it to get there.
2.10.16 Update: Compression test, 30# or less all cylinders. Distributor spins and is in time, so cam is in time. Oil squirted in cylinders, no change, appears to be a candidate for the 4.3 drop in, with a shift kit added this time.