Vacuum Advance Help

I have an 87 b2000 which has a vacuum advance that does not hold vacuum. I've searched for a replacement but due to the age of it I have not found any. Does anyone know of a source or rebuilder for these? I've got to believe that others have gone down this same road. Or has anyone rebuilt one and have a source for internal parts?

My last resort is to put in a rebuilt distributor but I am hoping someone might have an answer to just the vaccum advance first.

http://www.zoomzoomnationparts.com/p/Mazda_1986_B2000/Distributor-Vacuum-Advance/49018146/FE8518V35.html Says $26.51
or Google "1986 mazda b2000 distributor vacuum advance"

Looks like Geterdun has found it, price not too bad either. Looks like one in the link fits B2000, and B2200 uses a different one.

geterdun, thanks for the reply. Called them and like all the other mazda dealers who claim to be able to get them, the part is discontinued and they too acknowledged they are unable to get one for me. This also is the problem with the after market versions Standard, Borg Worner and others that I have found that cross references to the original mazda fe85-18-v35. So I am still looking for a solution and very interested in any suggestions.

Why not just get a whole new/rebuilt distributor? http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,1986,b2000,2.0l+l4,1190438,ignition,distributor,7108

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Distributor/02780/C0334.oap?make=Mazda&vi=1190438&model=B2000&year=1986

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Distributors-Parts-/33690/i.html?mvsub=1&_mcatda=true&MModel=B2000&MMake=Mazda

If I can't find the advance then a rebuilt distributor might be my only option. Rock has some rebuilts but since I haven't been working in a while I am trying to keep the cost to a minimum.

Okay guys I need to pose a question.

After hours of searching online for the correct vacuum advance can for my 86 b2000 ext cab I couldn't find one. No big shock, but I did settle on buying part# VC 385 which I discovered was for models 91+ b2200. It came in and sure thing it was slightly different than mine. It has a round eyelet style connector instead of the C shape mine has. I thought not really a big deal, but the stud inside the distro where it connects has a fork shaped tab to keep it from vibrating or coming off the mechanism and I couldn't get it to rotate enough to slip it over. I decided to get creative and cut the eyelet into a C shape. I cut and then tried to pry it open and one side of the eyelet popped. RRRR! Now I had to get very creative and found that the hole/slot in the C shape was almost the same size as a #6 or 8 machine bolt and I modified a flat washer into the C shape and then proceeded to attach it with JBWeld. Short answer that didn't work broke apart with ease. I then decided to attempt to spot weld the flat washer on. Surprisingly I suceeded and got the everything put back together.

The problem I'm having is after adjusting the ignition timing back to the 6 degree mark. It seems to idle better but it has fallen on its face in power. I know these engines don't have much to start with but mercy I didn't expect this result. I haven't driven it much since and my hope with this repair was to maybe get slightly better mileage and better idle. Does anyone know what could be the issue with the power decrease?

With the distributor cap off, suck on the vacumn line and watch the advance arm. Does it pull the timing plate around?
If so, is the vacumn line connected and to the correct intake port?

@geterdun-I do know that the new vacuum can does operate because when I first installed it and started the engine the ign timing was way advanced from the 6 deg mark which I had set previously with the faulty can. According to the the sticker on the hood the timing is supposed to be set at 6 deg with the vacuum line attached, so when the engine warmed up after installing the new can I adjusted back to 6 deg (per the info on the hood sticker).
As for whether or not it is connected to the correct port of the intake/carb, I don't know. At this point I have removed nearly all the emission lines months ago and capped them off. I don't know if the line for the ign vacuum was in the correct port to begin with. I have read from other sources that it is better to have it connected to a manifold port instead of a carb port. I currently have it connected to the port under the carb between the intake runners.

The line to the vacuum advance is supposed to be venturi vacuum. Venturi vacuum increases with rpm, and should be absent at idle. If you have vacuum to the advance line at idle, then it's either on the wrong carburetor port, or your carburetor is not properly adjusted.