Rebuild with performance improvements

I need some help. I have a completely stock 1986 Mazda B2000 LX Cab Plus with the convenience package (Black and Silver two tone paint). 1998cc 2.0 liter engine, 5 speed manual. I am laying all of the ground work for a full restore in the next year.

Build Concept
1. I want the truck to look original on the surface, but bring it to the 21st century.

Build Plan
1. Rebuild the engine with improved performance.
2. Would like to squeeze out 150HP-175HP without the use of a turbo or Super Charger.
3. Imrpoved suspension and handling
4. Improved Paint
5. Improved lighting

Issue
I have reached out to several engine shops with my performance goals. I am wanting to improve engine performance but maintain some docile performance. (Good daily driver with a kick when I want it). I want to build it for long term endurance as I will have no plans to sale. The shops will take my call, ask me a few questions to understand what I am looking for. They will then tell me they will research my options, offer me (at a high level) what the build options would be, recommendations, and provide ball park pricing. Then I hear nothing. I have follow up, again, nothing in returned. I have had this experience with about 6 different shops all around my state.

WTF? What does it take to figure out what your options are so you know how to build?

Does anyone have any input as to what the build options would be or have a recommendation of a build shop that will actually work with me on determine the best build option and work with me to complete the job. I am open to adjustments to my goals but I cant even get any kind of response. If they said, "hey about 135HP is the best you can do and here is the recommendation" then fine but I cant even get that.
I dont want to change the rear gears or any heavily modified drive change changes. I will put in an a higher grade clutch assembly (purely for toughness, will not be racing the truck). Again, look stock, just better build over all. Bringing it into the 21st century.

So does anyone have any idea of who I could contact or work with . I didnt think it would be that hard to get expert advise for a build plan so they could get a new customer....

A 2.0 motor puts out about 86 hp and you just aren't going to get anywhere near 150-175 hp. To get that you will have to go with fuel injection and probably a FE-3 is your best option because the single cam version puts out about 135 hp and the DOHC version puts out about 150.

First of all thanks for the feedback. So in short I am faced with two options, rebuild existing gaining some basic increase in power, and work around that by better air intake, exhaust etc to bump a few more hp and thats about it. So best case scenario with that will be 110-115hp or perform an engine swap that will enable me get close to that hp goal... So any idea what things I am going to have to change if I swapped for a FE3 DOHC engine? The truck doesnt have all of the fancy electronics of todays cars but I am guessing its going to impact some electronics (i.e. adding additional). My budget for the engine really cant exceed $4000.00 and I was really hoping to keep it closing to $3000.00 if possible.

Hi,
I too am going the FE-DOHC route, there is a lot of information about this swap on this site as well as here:
http://www.solomiata.com/FE3.html
You would need another fuel pump (Walbro 255LPH or Bosch 044 are the ones that I have seen recommended), a hood from a Mazda B2600 (which has the 'bump' in it) as the engine sits slightly higher (or you could possibly chop some of the underneath of the original hood to make room). The engine mounts up to the original engine mounts and the transmission (from what I have read you need to swap the oil pan/sump from the original B2000 engine to the FE3 motor (which can be sourced from 1995+ Kia Sportage (I think from '95-2005 but am not 100% sure about the years - I have a '96 engine as from '96 onward they had OBD2). You will also need the ECU, loom, headers etc. from the Kia unless going standalone. I too am having trouble finding someone that is wanting to assist me with some of the work (I live in New Zealand in a small town/city so the options are limited locally). Good luck with it all. Cheers, Gavin

Thank you so much for providing the information that you did. As much as I want the improved performance, from what I can see, the ROI is not there for the roughly 30HP gain. I am still sorting through what information I can find but I think I will end up just performing the rebuild on my existing, boring out what I can, doing the heads, upgrading the carb and attack some basic horsepower gains every little bit a I can throughout the truck(cool air intake, ignition, exhaust). If I do those little things maybe I can squeak out a 15-20 HP gain and save a lot of money. I will be professionally rebuilt and installed as I do not have the space, or tools to do it myself so I need to be aware of spend. At the very least, with the input I have received here and from what I have been able to find else where outside of a complete engine swap I have confirmed my options are limited with the factory engine. I personally want to keep it as factory as possible. At least I know the direction I am heading and can now focus on the rest of my build plan and pricing.

Hi again,
just so you are aware the original motor is around 86-87 HP and the FE3 without doing anything to it is 147 HP - people have managed 300+ HP out of this engine. Good luck with your build. Sounds like if you are sticking with the original engine you will want a Weber 32/36 DGEV maybe some Pacesetter headers...
Cheers,
Gavin

Oh no, I havent completely made up my mind yet. I am definitely still researching the swap and if you dont mind feel free to continue to share whatever you find and I will do the same. I just want to make sure I have all of the requirements for the swap so I can pull it all together up front its just depending on the overall cost, at least I have confirmed what my limits are for my existing engine.

4.3 GM v6 is almost a drop in fit (no truck modifications), unless you want to stay Mazda. I suppose the engine pads on the frame are in the same place as the 2600.

Gidday all, i'm in new zealand too, Dunedin.
Had a FE3-N in my old mazda 626GT 1988, its a nice engine. pretty sure its got a cold forged crankshaft... ie nice and stiff so good compression. Best i measured was about 185 - 190 lb/sqin. Working with these engines double check the main bolt in the end of the crankshaft stays done up to max torque... on mine it mysteriously came loose sometime after changing engines, resulting in the crankshaft sprocket that drives the cambelt vibrating, it partly sheared the woodruff key that locates it. Over a few months the engine went gradually out of time, to the point that it wouldnt run. Pulled out a lot of hair figuring that out! Fixed it all up, sold last november for $800NZD. Also because the cam shaft cover is so large, its difficult to make it oil tight. Oil drips down into the sparkplug wells, drowning the plugs. Had to continually clean them out.

Fitting the FE3N into a rear wheel drive ute isnt the main issue that the distributor sticks into the firewall? How do you get around that?

Now i've got a 1989 Ford Courier (b2000), all stock. 2.0L 8valve engine. There is so much room in the engine bay i could climb in and have a picnic... its enjoyable to work on. The FE3N was so cramped in the 626 doing any sort of work took ages.
The stock carburettor has '610' stamped on the side, does anyone have a workshop manual for this, or know what its full name is?

I mainly cruise around at 2000-3000rpm, on the flat get about 8.5-8.7L per 100km. Is there any advantage to putting in a Weber 32/36? the stock carby has primary venturi of 23.5 by 15 by 8mm, secondary venturi 29 by 10 by 7mm. The Weber is bigger at 32/36mm, wouldnt you just sit for longer running on the idle circuit?
i've also got the stock distributor with points ignition, am suspicious of the capacitor across the points. Reckon there are efficiency gains to be made.. i'm doing a capacitor upgrade. Not sure if will translate into hp gains, will soon find out.