valve job! need help!!

Hey guys i just removed the head from my b2200 to replace the valve stem seals. So i did all that and put everything back together. But now it wont start. The fuel pump is not pulling fuel to the weber carb i have installed. I also tried pouring gas into the carb to see if it would run and still nothing. Please any help would be greatly appreciated.

Maybe the timing belt was not installed correctly when you put it back on. A compression check would tell you if you have everything lined up. You need at least 120 psi and if the belt is off by a tooth you won't likely get that. The other thing to check is to see if you installed the arm of the fuel pump under the cam. Maybe that's possible.

"I just removed the head from my b2200. .....I also tried pouring gas into the carb to see if it would run and still nothing."

Then it sounds like electrical/spark.

My guess is that the distributor isn't installed correctly as gears allow insertion like 12 different ways, or ignition timing/distributor rotation, or wire connections to the distributor. Check for spark with a spark checker or timing light, then check to ensure that the spark is at the correct ignition timing using the timing light.

okay cool.. I'll check my distributor tomorrow morning when i work on it again. I did do a compression test and got above 120 psi across all cylinders. I'll also check my installation of the fuel pump too. I'm pretty sure its on top of the cam.

I had 165 psi in all four on my '88 B2200, and my engine still smoked. I rebuilt the engine after that (4.5 years ago).

Ok guys i got the truck running but not very well. First of all I have extreme trouble getting it running and when i do it runs real rough and extremely low idle. Ive tried to tune the weber 32/36 as per the instructions but as soon as i give it gas it backfires pretty badly. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Ive never really seen a situation like this before. Everything ran extremely well before i removed the head and did all the work.

Biggest issue with the Weber carbs are vacuum leaks due to the adapter plates not being sanded flat and.or lack of brown goo Permatex aviation sealant on the gasket surfaces. Did you plug ALL the vacuum ports - there are a lot !!! Check and re-check your spark plug wire orientation too.

Also: you had the cylinder head off. The distributor's shaft can be inserted about 12 ways, only one is correct. When you manually turn the engine over to TDC for #1, the distributor rotor should point to the 9 o'clock position as you look at it. And did you set the timing with a timing light and the distributor vacuum line unplugged and capped? If vacuum leak, real tough to set timing with that line connected. Did you get the timing belt installed correctly?
See http://www.mazdatrucking.com/B2200/B22TimeCheck.html
See http://www.mazdatrucking.com/B2200//B2200_Timing_Belt.html

First of all I would like to thank you Cusser for helping me out during this whole process. I could definitely tell you are a wealth of info.

With the weber i dont think the adapter plates are a problem because when i removed the intake manifold i left the weber mounted to it and it didn't give me any problems before. But with the timing belt i guess i just naturally assumed i installed it correctly but i'm going to redo it following the procedures listed in the link you shared.

With the distributor though wouldn't the engine not run at all if its not properly inserted? Because i do get the engine to run, just poorly.
Thanks again for all the help.

You could have the distributor a tooth off and still be able to rotate it enough to get the engine to run, before you run out of adjustment. If the cam is a tooth off, you could also compensate with the distributor adjustment to get it to run... albeit poorly, as you describe. Have you put a timing light on it, or just timed it by ear?

I've just timed it by ear so far.