Efi swap, amassing parts

Read timing and vacuum advance 101 yahoo search it, it is very informative, If all I could easily locate was manifold vacuum I would start there, if it runs good there,good milage no big stumbles you are good.If not then start looking for a ported vacuum source.As for boost if i were running a boosted car with your dizzy I would run it on manifold vacuum,because when you mash the throttle vacuum will drop and timing will also drop,As a starting point on boost I'd limit my total timing to 24 degrees [Set timing with engine revved to the point that all the centrifical advance is in}with vac advance disconnected.You will still have vacuum advance to bring up that 24 at part throttle or cruize but will drop to help prevent preignition on boos. no preignintion start bringing up base timing 2degrees at a time until it runs best and no preignition.If you are going complete stand alone. I think I would use my dizzy body and shaft and a hall effect switch as a trigger. Remember dizzy turns 1/2 crank speed.

@Ricko-I like the idea of using the hall effect sensor. Are you saying to use the reluctor wheel in the dizzy to trigger the hall sensor and send a signal to the ECM to fire the EDIS system or the individual COP's? If so, will a crank sensor still be needed or will the dizzy act as a cam and crank sensor?

Use the dizzy for both.Depending on your software you may have to modify/manufacture your own reluctor.Remember the cam and crank run in synch VIA. the timing belt only issue is cam spins half crank speed, Honda used a crank position sensor in the dizzy for a number of years. I would look at some honda dizzys for parts. The beauty of using the dizzy is it gives you some wiggle room because you can move the dizzy if you are a little off.

That's good to know because these engines aren't externally balanced at the crank and adding some form of crank sensing wheel would be a challenge. Since the cam turns 1/2 speed would the software just do a calculation to determine the crank position for which stroke sequence each cylinder is on or would it need a reference table based on the cam sync position? It would be really advantageous to not have to do a whole lot of fab work for a crank sensor to fire injectors and ignition if it can all be done with fab work on the dizzy alone.

Make your dizzy trigger pulse twice as often, As in if you need I pulse from a crank position sensor per 360degree revolution make the dizzy pulse every 180.It is entirely possible that you can remove your vac advance braze the mechanical advance fixed,and modify your existing distributor pickup and reluctor as a trigger. I haven't looked inside a b distributor in forever I will take a peak in one this weekend.Even if you can't using the b dist body and shaft a hall effect switch set up to trigger twice per dist. rotation should NBD. I do not know what software you are running It maybe entirely possible for the software to be tweaked to think everything is happening twice as fast as it is.

After you had mentioned using a hall effect sensor I did some more research and found a couple interesting threads in another forum where a guy used the dizzy as a cam sync sensor for a BBF application. It was a wealth of information but he had the advantage of fabbing a 60-2 crank trigger for his application. I'm not sure what software I'll been using yet cause I'm still in the researching phase and knew the dizzy would be a potential problem. I'm likely going to be using a MegaSquirt or MicroSquirt ECM, so I'll use whatever software they have. On that note I've looked at some photos of the dizzy and I don't see a slot in the gear where it is needed to run the oil pump. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere where it did serve a dual purpose as a pump drive and ignition.

Little update on my efi conversion potential setup. I was at a JY today and found a 4.9L caddy with PFI. It had what is basically a TBI without the injectors sitting above the plates. I paid $40 for throttle body, MAP sensor, and the air horn cover piece. My plan is to have an adapter made to mount it on my carby manifold and install some injectors mid manifold like I mentioned earlier in this thread. Then I can mount a regular 14" round cleaner housing or use the air horn cover I got and a remote cold air pod filter.

How do I spot a wide band O2 sensor in the JY? Example: single wire= narrow band?

Guys I just found a new product from Holley. It's a self tuning 2 barrel EFI based on the Holley 2300 2 barrel carburetor platform bolt pattern. Not sure if it flows in the 350 cfm range or the 500 cfm capacity, but it's still very doable for our B's. I've not read all the specifics yet, but I think all we'd need is to upgrade from manual fuel pump to electric and get an adapter plate made to mount it to the manifold. It also appears to be priced somewhat reasonably at $875 MSRP.

A couple months ago I found a similar 2 barrel EFI designed around the Weber DGV platform. I believe it is called Retroject. UK based company I think. It's a good option if you've already ditched the OEM carb and installed a Weber. No new manifold adapter or air cleaner; however it's price is a little high since it doesn't come with the ECM to control it. I saw it listed on Ebay for around $625 I think. Once you add a controller and other things like sensors and such I think it'd be upwards of $1k.

Has anyone considered installing a swirl pot or fuel surge tank under the hood of their B? I was thinking about this as an option instead of placing an electric pump in the main tank. My thoughts were use the manual pump to fill the swirl pot and then plumb short high pressure lines from it to the EFI system.