1992 B2600i Running Rough

I have a 1992 b2600i 2wd. I bought it two months ago. The guy said it was sitting for 5-6 years. So i went through it and all. Put on a new fuel pump. Had no problem until two weeks ago. It will drive fine and then i park it, get back in it 20 min later and it just doesnt want to run its boggy and you have to rev the truck to get rpms up. Ive replace the fuel filter and cleaned the rail, regulator, and injectors. Can somebody PLEASE help me.

The 2600i is known to have a bad circuit PCB so you imght want to eliminate that as a possibility. It is located under the passenger side kick panel. If you remove the cover you can look for leaky capacitors, and maybe the thing will smell burned. The other thing that comes to mind is the possibility of a corroded coolant thermosensor switch. The resistance on the switch is supposed to drop as engine temperature goes up, telling the computer to deliver less fuel to the injectors. If the resistance is too high, it fools the computer into thinking that the engine is still cold and that can cause flooding, like a carburetor with a choke that is stuck closed. I am sure that other people will have some other ideas.

Thanks where can I located the thermostat switch?

You might go here for more information :http://www.troublecodes.net/mazda/

I don't know where the switch is located, but it will be somewhere where it screws into the water jacket.

I believe I have found the problem. When my truck begins to act up or shut off I simply unplug my mass air flow sensor then start the truck and plug it back in and repeat that process every time it acts up. But sometimes I have to plug and unplug multiple times until it works. This may seem like a dumb question but should I be buying a new one? I've read that MAF problems dont happen often on are trucks but its possible.

I've replaced the maf and still acts up when it acts up the truck will usually shut off. So I go unplug the maf start it up then plug it back in and it seems to reset itself guys please help I've been down for a month.

Well, the previous owner told you the truck had problems so you bought it knowing you had issues. It's just taken this amount of time for them to surface. Did you check the ECM for troubles like I mentioned in my first post to you? A visual inspection might tell you everything you need to know, and you can eliminate that as a possibility if it doesn't smell or look burned inside.

Your truck is OBD 1 compliant, which means that there is a breakout location to test the different components to make sure that each of them are working properly, as the ECM monitors their function to make sure they are working or not. I gave you a website which gives information about how to go about retrieving the codes. I'm going to indicate here that you probably didn't do that homework before you jumped to the conclusion that the MAF was bad. That website AGAIN is :http://www.troublecodes.net/

If you have a High School or community college near you, many times they have a vocational tech shop and you can maybe convince them to take a look at your truck as a project that the class can learn from. That is an idea which would benefit beginning techicians in repairing technology that is still pretty stable.

There are many things that can cause the kinds of symptoms you are experiencing and you will need to pinpoint which component is causing the problem. It could be a simple as a faulty ground that shows up when the engine warms up. I hope you can do better diagnostic work than the guy who I helped change a head gasket on a Toyota "because it was leaking" when afterwards it turned out to be his fuel pump. He paid me for the head gasket labor, but I don't think he was happy. That is the cost of mis-diagnoses.

Here is another website to do your diagnostics: http://codes.rennacs.com/Petrol-Engine/Japanese-Korean/Mazda-Engines.php

http://www.mazdabscene.com/threads/142332/mazda-26l-1992-b2600i-running-rough

http://codes.rennacs.com/plugins/MazdaEFI/MAZDA-EFI-05-1-100.php
Mazda Engines Connector 5

Photos of where to find connector in car

Diagnostic Link Connector No. 5

Year range: 1988 to 1994

Locations: Near the left hand strut tower.
Near the right hand strut tower.
Near windscreen wiper motor or airflow meter wiring harness.
Under the drivers side kick panel.
Under the passengers side kick panel.
In the center console.

http://codes.rennacs.com/Manual-info.php

I ran codes today there is none.

I don't know what you did to retrieve your codes, but it seems with you unplugging and plugging in your MAF sensor you really should have trapped an induced code. Codes will remain in ECU memory until the battery cable is disconnected and the brake pedal is depressed. Can you post what steps you took to retrieve your codes? The check engine dash light is not where you read codes on your truck. Just sayin.