Headlight Isssue

I was driving last week hit a small bump and my bright lights went out. Then last night the same thing happened to my dims. No headlights at all. The dash lights all work including the blue lamp indicating that the brights are on. Any idea what could be the issue?

Possible the lights themselves finally gave up the ghost. Sounds like the filaments popped.

The fact that you are seeing the high beam indicator light coming on shows that you are getting current to both that bulb and to the high beams. They headlights use a different ground so maybe that is where you can find the loss of your circuit.
You could try unplugging one bulb and see if the other bulb works. I think the relay is located on the fuse panel but if you have an owners manual it might give you more detail. The other possibility could be that the switch has gone bad and has an open in it due to corrosion or arcing that has built up internally.

here is a link to a wiring schematic: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/07/d4/c3/large/0900c1528007d4c3.gif

I test the plug that plugs into the headlights with a multimeter and it has power to the plug. I have not tested the light themselves because the local autoparts store did not have replacements.I used a analog multimeter on OhMs and it did nothing. I replaced all 3 relays under the hood, still not bueno.

Also sounds like bad headlight filaments to me, should have a finite resistance, not "nothing". I got replacements for my B2200 at O'Reilly a year ago.

Ok. It was a bad alternator regulator. It surged and blew my headlights. I replace the alternator and put in 2 new bulbs. Problem Solved. I get into my truck this morning, it would not start. I jumped the truck and backed out of the driveway. Within 2 minutes my lights started to dim durastically any have any idea what it could be. At the bottom of the alternator is a plug that is not connected any idea what that plug is for?

The place in the bottom of the alternator is for the electric choke wire to plug into. The stock carburetor uses a 7VDC feed off the alternator to help it open up. Because you had a flat battery that required jumping off, I am going to suggest that you take your multimeter and check your battery voltage to verify it is within a correct range. With the engine off, turn on the headlights for 90 seconds and then check the battery. It should show 12-12.6 volts. If it shows 10 volts, you have a dead cell and the battery is bad. 11 volts means you have a battery that is about flatlined. The alternators job is to keep the battery at full charge, not charge a battery that is dead or bad. You may have burned up your new alternator because you ran the engine with the dead battery instead of taking it out to get it charged before use.

I assumed that is what the plug was for. The truck has been running very very rich. I reached behind and opened the choke manually and the truck instantly starting running smoother. I am having the alternator check out today. I hope the new alternator is not fried. They are 15o bucks. My lights do dim at low rpms, not durastically but they do dim a bit.

Thank you all for the advice