Please help! Mazda b2200 weber issue!

Alright guys someone please help I've had several try and fail. I've got a mazda b2200 with a weber and pacesetter header. I can't get this damn thing to run right. Its running rich a believe. I've checked everything short of the god damn space shuttle. My timing is correct. I've adjusted the float and changed jets to get the mixture to turn within spec. All my hoses are good all the way to the tank. New pump and filter cap and rotor with 8mm wires and an msd blaster 2 ignition coil and new ignition module and plugs. All gapped to .32 like they should be. I've put adjustable rocker arms on and adjusted to spec. My buddy tried to help and we advanced my distributor because we couldn't find issues anywhere else. The more advanced the better for whatever reason it loved it. We maxed that damn thing out and it ran absolutely perfect for about a week or two. Slowly but surely it slowed back down to how it ran with it at 6 degrees. I literally had to advance the distributor a tooth with it at center just to make the damn thing run within weber spec. Less than 1 1/2 turns in on idle speed screw and I'm right at 2 turns out on mixture screw. Running 60 for main idle jet. Recently replaced plugs to find them black then I adjusted float. It's just gutless and literally won't run at the timing it's supposed to be at anymore if I back it off its worse than it is now. Why would it run so great for 2 weeks and slow down and now I can't back off the distributor? I just readjusted my valves I'm almost thinking cam. It's a huge ghost problem. I have exactly the fuel pressure I need I have everything wtf I'd wrong with it?

Pull the upper timing cover, rotate the engine to #1 TDC and check that the cam and crank marks are both indicating alignment with TDC. There is a chance that your timing belt has lost a tooth and the engine has jumped time.
That would cause the cam to be one tooth retarded in relation to the crank. The other thing to check is that the crank pulley has hogged out the keyway on the crank and has retarded the cam time. If you do a compression test that shows low compression that would give an indication of late cam timing as well.

Another thing to check would be that the spark actually advances as you raise the rpm, using the timing light. For that to happen, the carb must pull a vacuum and the distributor advance needs to be working.

I checked the timing it's in time. The next thing Im gonna do is check if the vacuum advance is working correctly and check how high the duration is on my cam. After 300k it could have worn out. My compression is at 120psi which is a little low. But I'm getting blow by out of my valve guides which is typical for these

And I raised the rpms with the timing light on it, it does advance but I wanna try sucking into the vacuum line to the distributor advance and make sure it's working properly

I'm going to draw your attention to the statement you made in your original post which indicated you had to advance the distributor: "I literally had to advance the distributor a tooth with it at center just to make the damn thing run" That statement indicates that you have had to compensate for late cam timing. Advancing the distributor physically has just masked the issue. Also that you are showing low compression indicates a late intake valve opening that a retarded cam would permit. The truck was running fine, and then it started running bad. That isn't a gradual process like a cam being worn out. Pull the upper timing cover and then rotate the engine so you can see if the timing belt as it rotates. If you look down on the idler as you rotate the engine you can verify that the timing belt has all of it's teeth. Do yourself a favor and eliminate the belt as a possibility before you spend money on parts that won't fix the problem. I've had many of these trucks over the years. About the only thing that ever breaks on the engine is a worn-out timing belt.

Ugh... did some more research... U were right. It's the keyway. Started making a funny noise I couldn't make out a couple months after I bought it. Recently while timing it I noticed the crank had a slight wobble to it. That's definitely the issue it's throwing my timing off. Time to either find another engine or another crank

The good news is that you have found the issue. Somewhere in the past someone didn't tighten the crank pulley enough and it allowed the pulley to work back and forth. I had a Mazda 323 that I bought cheap because it had done the same thing. I fixed it by lining everything up and tightening the bolt, then drilling a 1/8" hole in the seam between the crank and the pulley, and inserting a rollpin into the hole. It wasn't pretty, but it lined up the parts enough that I didn't have anymore problems out of it while I owned the vehicle. I think the bolt has to be tightened to something like 120 ft-lbs, and without an impact gun, trying it with a regular wrench just causes the engine to rotate.

Yes, the large bolt in the center needs to be torque tight like mazdatweaker_2 stated. Yes, impact gun, or maybe 21 mm socket after immobilizing engine by putting in gear and handbrake on, or removing starter and wedging a large bolt head in there to prevent flywheel from turning (search that on MazdaTrucking.com). However, I really like that roll pin idea a lot, might try two.

I've also read of some trying JB Weld to hold the key in place, don't know how successful that is....