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Dually Suspension \  MMk Got a couple ?'s

MMk Got a couple ?'s

Dually Suspension Dually Tech
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ben_shady1   +1y
K So on the front of my truck I need to narrow my control arms or build new ones.. From what I have read Dragnasty's arms were narrowed 3/4".. Is that what I need to do to mine or will I need to go farther since they are 24's?

Will have to re-angle my balljoints in the front so it'll lay with out binding? Or will it layout on 24's without having to work on the arms besides narrowing? I have some 3" drop spindles.. What else you think I'll have to do to get it to lay out on a 285/35/24?

In the rear I need to narrow my rearend roughly 8 inches correct? or would it be best to narrow it less or more? I wish I could find a narrower rear around here but I've called 30 or so salvage yards and have had no luck so far.. I figure I can just cut the flanges off my housing,narrow it, then weld the flanges back on. Seems it would be the easiest that way since the outer bearings are in the hubs themselves. then send my axles to mosier and have them narrowed.

Am I on the right track here? I'm trying to figure out these last few things before my wheels get here and I can start tearing into it.

Also.. does anyone have an extra TBI laying around for my truck? Mine has a hell of a bad spot in it a lil over idle so it's either gas it or don't.. once you get past that spot it acts normal. It like sputters and coughs black smoke when it hits that spot though.. Anyone else have an issue like this? I figure I might just change out the tbi since it seems to have a bad spot that makes the throttle stiff for the first 1/8th of the pedal..

Also someone's done some work on it at one point in time and it's got butt connectors on the injector wires. The bad things is they are inside the breather not an inch away from the injector. I have no idea why the hell someone would do that but they did..


Hit me back with any info if ya know the answers.. for the rest of you guys.. Go ahead and whore and maybe on page 4 I'll get an answer...lol
lockone   +1y
Dragnasty had the 3/4 ton spindles and hubs on it and I think that with those he still had to lengthen the control arms 3/4" to make it look better. As far as the offset of 24s and 22s they are the same. If you use the factory control arms you will need to pie cut or raise the lower balljoint to prevent binding and you may need to shorten the stock control arms but I am not positive. I did an 83 with 22s on all of the stock suspension un-modified but it just layed frame and wasn't boddied.

The rear will need almost 8 inches maybe a bit less depending on what rear you have now. I may have a rear out of a P30 but I will have to call and make sure that the truck is still in one piece and hasnt been crushed by the yard. If you call a salvage yard ask for the rearend out of a bread or box truck, the models are late 70s and early 80s P30 trucks and most measure 36" TO 41" plate to plate.
ben_shady1   +1y
I called all the yards I could find with no luck.. Check your voicemail fool.. I called you friday afternoon to see if you had one or not. If you can get one shoot me a price and I might can get it with my wheels in Millington..

I was figuring I'd have to raise my lower balljoint or build some custom lowers just wasn't sure about the uppers or not. Bodied and laying frame won't be any different in the suspension. Guess I need to bolt my wheels on and get a look to see for sure what all I need to shorten/extend to get it to lay.
dragnasty   +1y
I did NOT have 3/4 ton spindles. Factory dually 1 ton 3" drop spindles. My front end was stock except bagged, uppers and lowers 3/4", and drop spindles.


With the 24s you will need to raise the ball joints some to get it to lay. You may have to narrow the control arms 1 1/4" because my wheels had 1/2" milled off the face to help tuck the lugs.
ben_shady1   +1y
Ahhh right on bro that's what I was needing to hear Thanks for sending me in the right direction.. Now I know a good starting point.

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