99 chevy 3500 control arm ?

I have 99 1 ton dually with 3" dropped spindles and 2" dropped springs. I want to narrow the front track. Is the best way to just narrow my arms? And if so the uppers are solid steel I was thinking of cutting welding back together and adding a sleeve over the weld and spoting the sleeve on top of the splice.

Exactly how much are you wanting to narrow the track width?

Yeah, I'd be looking for other ways to solve that track width problem. Your idea for shortening the upper isn't all that bad since it's solid round stock, but the lower is still stamped, it'd be work to shorten that safely. Be better off getting custom-made tubular lowers, or solve the problem a different way. IMO. Bottom line is I wouldn't hack the stamped lower arms, sounds like a disaster. And I've seen it done...

Richard

The lower arms would be simple to narrow, I can fab up a set of arms if I have to. I wasn't worried about them at all it was the uppers that seamed questionable. I have 16's on my truck and have a 5/6+ on it and will eventually put 22's. But I wanted the wheels tucked in more in the front. I was wondering what is the best way to do this being I already have 1 ton 3" spindles and factory arms. Maybe a 1 - 1 1/2" per side. Is there any known issues when you narrow it to a certain depth? Guys thanks a bunch I appreciate the replies .

if u are trying to shorten 3500 arms and run 22s, u will never be able to turn...

at least if they are the same as 92 3500 arms...u would need to lengthen them...

The only problem you will run into when you shorten the arms is the turning radius. 22s will tuck fine on that truck without any mods at all to the suspension, although your spindles are pushing the wheels outward towards the fenders. Spindles can add up to 1" on the overall track width on most vehicles.

Thanks Lock,
Would 1 ton SRW hubs and lengthening the arms cause the same turning issues? Or are there a new set of problems with this method?

Also if I did go the SRW hub setup would the 16" wheels still work? Atleast til I get a set of 22's.

Use a sw front hub and a spacer to get the 22's to set in there right.. you will have better luck going that route....

They are right though.. you are going to lose turning radius... I also think you will lose more turning radius with the 16's on there cause the rim is going to hit the c-arm sooner then the 22's...

I know milled 19.5's are about the same price as 22's, 22's look sick... You wont have to run those sw hubs if u go 19.5's milled to 19...

i am in the same dilema... I want 24's in the back and 22's in the front but cost of adapters, wheels and which ever route you go u have to narrow the rear, widen the fenders, or buy extra wide fenders... that all adds up to serious cash

If you use the single wheel hubs or 3/4ton hubs you still need to lengthen the control arms around 1"-1.5" when running 22s. You cannot run a spacer with the 22s and an adapter it is just too much weight on your stock 8lug studs.

You will loose a bit of turning radius this way but even stock these trucks dont turn well and they still havent fixed that in the 2009-2010 models. You can always keep making Y turns and 7point turns like normal.

I know for sure in the rear when using the SRW components you cannot use a 16" dually wheel so I am fairly confindent that the same situation will happen in the front. The offset of a dually wheel doesnt allow the wheels to clear the calipers/drums.