76 Chev Dually Suspension Choices

I am just in the planning stages of a build, and have been lurking for a few weeks.

I plan to drop, but not slam, my 76 Dually. It has to be able to tow a 40 foot 5th wheel (currently a 30 but someday...).

While I have seen a lot of options I am confused as to the rarity of some of them. For instance, the ARF5002

Why does this kit not turn up in the search on this forum? Is it garbage?

My goal is to have a truck that looks lower, and can be dropped down. I do not need it do drag the rockers (what does pinch mean?) but I would like it to be decently low. I was thinking that a 3" Dropped Spindle (what kind is best) and an airbag system for when I am parked / idling around.

In the rear I am not sure what I want to do. I know it has to involve airbags (for drop and hauling). I don't know if I should be doing a 4 / 3 Link or pulling a couple leaves for the drop. My truck doesn't currently have a 5th wheel hitch (I sold it with an old 5th wheel and currently pull with my work truck). Are the Link Suspensions that I see on here capable of hauling a couple thousand pounds in the box and pulling 18000 pounds?

I guess that's a start as far as my questions go. The plan is for widened fenders and 22's eventually. I don't know if the tire/rim size influences front Air Bag options.

I hope I don't piss of some of the "personalities" around here with these questions. But I have used the search, and learned a lot.

I have balk-halved a car before using a kit, but I don't know how strong something needs to be to maintain / improve towing abilities. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Can you tow something with a Notched Frame? I imagine if done right it would be stronger than original.

Thoughts?

as long as everything is gusseted and welded up nice and sturdy and u have a rigid link setup anything is possible
as far as the front goes you can piece together a little kit yourself for cheaper then you can buy a whole kit
you need bag cups i recommend re-7 slam specialties airbags and on a 76 they make a kit where its a cup on upper arm and you plate the bottom control arm
how many valves are u wanting to run? just front back? or front bag side to side and indiviual?
you just gotta do some research bro you may wanna check out streetsourcemag.com and do a search of dually builds i gaurentee that will help ALOT

18k #

BOO^ but right and smart lol

The little lip under the rockers were they "pinch" it together and spot weld it.

Ya the ridetech kit is a little pricey for what it includes. The front is pretty easy, run a quality bag, lines and valves. Take your time to install it and you should be more than okay.

The rear is a little more difficult, but you said you don't want to slam it, or even care about laying rocker. If you check out here and see if like Campy's truck is low enough for you. You could add some helper bags to keep your towing up and you don't have to notch the frame much.

Or a link system built with good size bars will work fine, some of the big rigs run a link system. I would highly recommend NOT putting the bags on the bars, too much stress. I would not run a triangulated system(this is just my opinion). I do not feel they can give enough lateral stability when you put a trailer on the back.

Campy is a stick in the mud. But he may be right if something were to ever happen. But people do it all the time(not that it makes it right). If you do things right and think about how you are going to use your truck and build accordingly.

Might be right?

When it comes down to it, you cannot legally exceed the GCVW rating no matter what mods you do to your rig. Look at any reputable company

I in no way condone going over the gvwr. I was referring to towing with a modified vehicle. I do have to admit there are a lot of people pulling stuff they should not be. No one thinks about having to make a panic stop of swerve, they think because it pulls nice they are fine.

Sounds like some good advice.

I'll do some research where you guys mentioned.

I am aware of the towing issue. I plan to do everything possible to increase the capability of the truck and over-engineer everything. While it may not be legal specifically, not wanting to hurt anyone's family, or my own, would lead me to build it strong everywhere, and involve some experts for advice where necessary.

Campy's truck is low enough for me. Should I ditch the front bags plan and just do a rear Air Suspension? It would be nice to air it down when parked for looks, but as far as ride height I like what he has. I imagine it would be fairly easy to use 3" drop spindles and air bags. Besides pressure is there a good way to make sure you are always running at the proper ride height (for alignments sake).

I think I will be running a 4 Link with a panhard bar (or a watts link depending on cost) in the rear with bags over.

I imagine that this will necessitate a raised panel in the box where the Notch is and to make room for the Air Bags.

Pulling a trailer that weighed 18 000 pounds would be if I absolutely had to to avoid a cataclysm of some sort. I put an abnormally high number in my post to discourage lowered trucks who never tow from telling me about their setups. 12 000 Would probably be my norm, which, while over, isn't over by much. I pull 13 000 pound trailers every week for work so I am familiar with Stopping / Swerving concerns.

Thanks for the help and I'll put up some more questions once I read a little more.

P.S. Has anyone ever looked for bars for a 4 Link that are the right length off of a certified Heavy Duty Application?

Edit: Is there a truck on here somewhere that uses Drop Spindles (3") and air bags. Some pics of a truck only lowered 3 "'s up front at ride height and then with air out would be helpful

Do you need to run Separate circuits for all 4 corners? If you only ran a front / rear system wouldn't you have issues?

I'm thinking that while cornering (say a long gentle corner with slight G Force Loading) the weight transfer to the outside would cause air to be squeezed out of that bag and into the inside bag thereby increasing the "tilt" of the rig and making the problem worse.

In a worst case theoretical situation involving say brake failure in the mountains and overly high cornering speeds you could have a chain reaction that makes your body-roll worse.

Is there something besides a sway bar to combat this? Perhaps Check valves in the Fill Lines and Seperate Dump valves?

I would definitely run separate valves for each corner.